A clutch of London designers took to The Hoxton hotel in Holborn on Monday afternoon for the launch of the latest edition of The Hoxton Collective, a British Fashion Council collaboration with the hotel, to showcase London designers’ pre-collections.
Shrimps, Phoebe English, Fyodor Golan, Teatum Jones, Rejina Pyo, Eudon Choi and Teija all presented pieces that either formed stand-alone pre-collections or will be early deliveries of their spring 2018 collections.
For Hannah Weiland of Shrimps, “folk art” was her touchstone for the season, looking at creations by “unknown artists” for inspiration. One of the prints in the collection is a doodle of sinister-looking characters that Weiland had drawn when watching artist Grayson Perry, who’s famed for his twist on folk traditions, speak at the British Museum. There were also PVC dresses with contrastingly sweet crochet lace collars, along with gingham smock dresses, some of which were inspired by Weiland’s late grandmother’s wardrobe.
Phoebe English, meanwhile, showed a capsule of designs that have been hits for the brand in the past, which will sell for resort but will also form a part of her larger, directional spring 2018 collection. They include structured cotton jackets and silk camisole tops in a palette of black and neutrals. “It’s a trial season to see how this works,” English said.
Catherine Teatum of Teatum Jones also said her brand is experimenting with the pre-collection format. The season is a continuation of the label’s fall 2017 collection, “The Body Part 1,” which explored and draped clothes around different body types, including people with disabilities. On Monday, the label previewed designs that experimented with those draping and eyelet details further, but in a more “commercial” way, Teatum said, with pieces such as striped shirt dresses with tucked and draped details. The collection is being wholesaled now, and some of the pieces will also be part of the spring 2018 collection, “The Body Part 2.” “We really thought about wearability — fabrics that are easier, lighter and price points that are slightly more accessible, and testing how a single concept can work between two seasons,” Teatum said of the pre-collection.
The showcase — which ran Monday and Tuesday — is in its third year, with Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of the BFC, noting that it’s intended to “help designers find dynamic ways to present their collections and support a more fluid selling calendar.”