LONDON — London-based footwear label Malone Souliers is taking to the runway for fall, in a collaboration with designer David Koma on the shoes for his fall 2015 collection, called Malone Souliers X David Koma. Koma, who is also artistic director of Mugler, will show his fall own-label collection Feb. 22 during London Fashion Week.
Malone Souliers, which launched for fall 2014, is headed by creative director Mary Alice Malone and managing director Roy Luwolt. Luwolt said that he and Malone were drawn to working with Koma as the two labels “have such different design aesthetics,” describing Koma’s sculptural, often figure-hugging designs as “awesomely fierce.” He said that Malone has aimed to marry that look with the “refined femininity,” for which Malone Souliers is known. With that in mind, Malone said she’d designed a shoe with a “little platform” for the first time for the collaboration with Koma, alongside working with materials such as wool and suede. “[Koma] likes his girls in very high heels,” mused Malone. Koma added: “The sheer quality and painstaking attention to detail of Malone Souliers, coupled with a certain subtle irreverence caught my attention. I am excited about this collaboration,” he said.
The collection will be sold as a capsule within Malone Souliers’ fall 2015 collection. While fall will see Malone Souliers collaborate solely with David Koma’s own label, Luwolt said he sees the collaboration as with Koma as “the man, the maker and the designer,” rather than the label specifically. “David Koma by Malone Souliers is the starting point,” noted Luwolt. As to their fall mainline collection, Malone said that she has also worked on designs that employ “couture making,” as in one design whose pattern is inspired by Victorian fetish gloves, Malone said. The label will also begin to work with a new, as yet un-named brand ambassador, who will wear their designs at the Grammy Awards next month.