JEAN GENIES: London’s Marques’ Almeida is heading to Paris Fashion Week, according to a statement released Monday, though the details are still being finalized.
Launched in 2011 by London-based Portuguese duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, and propelled by the success of its signature Nineties-inspired frayed denim pieces, the growing label scooped the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize in 2015, offering a 300,000-euro cash boost, a year of coaching and global exposure.
As reported, new arrivals to the Paris schedule include Afterhomework, A.W.A.K.E., Ottolinger and designer Anton Belinskiy.
The week is set to kick off a day earlier than usual on Sept. 24, with Simon Porte Jacquemus — who last year started showing his collection on the eve of the official start of the week — being joined by heavy hitters Dior and Gucci, the latter defecting exceptionally from Milan for one season.
Among other expected highlights are Hedi Slimane’s first collection for women and men at Céline, scheduled for Sept. 28 at 8:30 p.m. — the late Friday time slot marking a pronounced change from his predecessor Phoebe Philo, who habitually showed in an early afternoon slot on Sunday.
Casey Cadwallader at Mugler and Yolanda Zobel at Courrèges are also slated to unveil their first full collections, while Esteban Cortázar and Cédric Charlier are back on the calendar.
Absent this season are Carven, which has filed for the French equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, and Vanessa Seward, who is looking for a new investor after parting ways with contemporary brand APC. Undercover has also dropped off the women’s runway schedule and is switching to a presentation format.
Lanvin, Nina Ricci and Lacoste are sitting out the season as they search for new creative leaders.