Marta Jakubowski RTW Spring 2017

The spinning circus carousel that Poland-born designer Marta Jakubowski used to showcase her second London Fashion Week appearance was a deceptively festive note to a collection that was inspired by the death of the designer’s mother four years ago. Also at odds with the somber inspiration was the color palette of fuchsia, tangerine, red, black and white, a spectra inspired by the funeral traditions of Varanasi in India, where she was moved by the celebration of a life lived, rather than mourning a loss.

The collection was made up of long-and-lean silhouettes that had echoes of Nineties minimalism, with long dresses in block colors suspended from shoulders on thin spaghetti straps, and elongated blazers and wide-leg pants in crepe, satin or stretch velvet. Adding interest to the clean lines were Jakubowski’s signature geometric cutout shapes, like the exposed flank and thigh in a sleeveless tux-dress, or the thigh-height open window into the back of a white strapless gown, one of the collection’s standout looks.