AGAINST TYPE: Martin Margiela has been dubbed the Greta Garbo of fashion for his invisible-man ways, but the Belgian designer has let it be known that he approves of the appointment of John Galliano as creative director of the house he founded, according to a source with knowledge of the matter.

Margiela instituted a policy of strict anonymity at Maison Martin Margiela that involves all employees wearing identical lab coats. Characterizing the studio as a creative collective, the designer never gave interviews or appeared in public.

This story first appeared in the November 13, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

However, it is believed that Margiela was keen to see a leader at the label he left in 2009. Over the years, designers including Marios Schwab and Matthieu Blazy were known to design for the brand, but the label’s owner, Renzo Rosso’s holding OTB, steadfastly refused to identify them.

Interestingly, Galliano — one of fashion’s most flamboyant showmen, fond of taking his bow in outlandish costumes, including a Napoleon Bonaparte outfit and a spaceman suit — has been spotted at Margiela headquarters in Paris regularly wearing his white lab coat.