NEW TALENT: Nurturing the next generation of fashion talents has become a key initiative for the Italian chamber of fashion, which hosted its Milano Moda Graduate talent scouting competition for the seventh year, this time on the penultimate day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week.
Conceived as a celebration of free creativity and a chance to give credit and visibility to young designers, the runway show featured collections from nine students selected from a range of Italian fashion schools including IED, Istituto Marangoni, NABA and IUAV and Istituto Modartech, among others.
Gabriele Larcher of Milan’s Accademia Costume & Moda scooped up the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Fashion Award for the best collection, which entails a monetary prize. The goal of the talent scout project is to support young talents via mentoring initiatives such as workshops and meetings with key industry leaders on topics including manufacturing, digital communication, international markets and diversity and inclusion.
The jurors’ panel included Capasa; Fendi chief executive officer Serge Brunschwig; Jacopo Etro; Elia Maramotti, Max & Co. brand director; fashion critic Suzy Menkes; Rinascente’s head of fashion Federica Montelli, and Sara Sozzani Maino, the CNMI international brand ambassador and head of the Vogue Talents platform.
Larcher presented an impressive collection of patchwork minidresses crafted from assorted fabrics bearing a range of prints and worn under cutout leather vests, jackets and shearling coats, which he likened to contemporary armor. The outcome was an experimental and edgy lineup. Footwear stole the spotlight as a range of stiletto heels were made from disassembled sneaker pieces, for a cutting-edge effect.
Other winners included IUAV’s Anna Dionisi and Leonardo Rossetto, who received the YKK Prize handed out by the company’s president, Hitoshi Yamaguchi. The students will be offered a monetary prize, as well as a yearlong supply of zippers.
In addition, Vogue Talents rewarded Emilia Torcini of Istituto Modartech with its special prize. The designer’s men’s lineup showcased accessible clothing, including orthopedic corsets worn on top of tailored and knitwear pieces.