In New York from the company’s headquarters in Rimini, Italy, head of style Geraldina Bassani Antivari detailed some of the brand’s plans. Since joining the company four years ago, sales have increased from $1.5 million to $47 million. Now the goal is to hit $100 million by 2021, she said. She praised chief executive officer and owner Andrea Bucalossi for being “highly organized” and “having that Italian vibe of doing and moving and being quick and fast. Managing sku’s for him is a daily war.”
The eight to 10 producers in Italy that the company relies on know they need to continually research new techniques, cuts and furs. “We don’t want to work with companies that don’t respect the ethical laws,” Antivari said. “We work very closely with all of our wholesalers because we want to be one of those companies that gives service or something that was made for New York or for China.”
Researching military uniforms is a recurrent practice for her to get a better understanding of functionality. But those elements are combined with more modern accents like tri-colored fur. “We’re not doing the cutting edge Margiela or Dior. We have to do a great product that has great appeal. It’s about being consistent and seeing what is missing in the market,” Antivari said.
With average retail prices ranging from $3,000 to $5,000 for outerwear, the label also offers embroidered fur-trimmed track suits, athleticwear, sportswear and such accessories as handbags and fur-trimmed slides. Gigi Hadid and Rihanna were a few of the first celebrities who wore the label publicly but they did so on their own.
“We were like, ‘Is that ours?’” she said, referring to paparazzi photos of Rihanna wearing a Mr and Mrs Italy multicolor fox parka she bought at Browns in London. “In the end, that’s a product that works well. That’s why our things are very contemporary. It pairs the cool with practicality. Otherwise, you’re just repeating what other people do. They might be incredibly beautiful but you won’t wear them everyday.”
Having recently opened a store in Shanghai, another one is planned for Beijing in the fall. The detachable fur-lined hoods of hoodies have become popular with women, especially in Asia, who carry them in their handbags and pull them out to wear in overly air-conditioned places, Antivari said. There are also plans for a store in Hong Kong in Harbour City, as well one in Miami and Manhasset, N.Y. It is not uncommon for the company to find a location and open a store within a month, Antivari said. E-commerce is gaining momentum partially due to customization options for select outerwear styles.
For the past four years, Antivari has also designed her own collection on the side selling direct-to-customers via trunk shows or made to order with a two-week delivery. “It’s very high-end with a clean classic cut. It’s a bit of a different way of doing things for women 45 and over who are bored with going into a shop and not finding their size, their color, their fit. But in the end, a customer who buys a fox parka is my customer more or less. It’s like putting together two different worlds.”