LONDON — The streetwear market is not going away anytime soon.
While many designers known for their streetwear might be moving toward more sophisticated, tailoring-heavy collections, lines of excited teenagers are still snaking their way through Soho here, which is home to Palace and Supreme. Resale prices for limited-edition sneakers keep climbing and a new concept store, The Collection, made its debut last month, offering rare, or limited-edition streetwear, at prices ranging from 10 pounds to 10,000 pounds.
Another new label, Pacifism, makes its market debut this week with a different proposal: Seasonless, more refined streetwear at contemporary price points.
“A wide spectrum of brands have all been influenced by streetwear and the men’s wear scene is growing at an exponential rate,” said Pacifism’s founder Talal Hizami, who has business and wholesale backgrounds, but is self-taught when it comes to design.
“I’m always looking for brands that combine streetwear elements with a high level of design, but struggled to find any that were accessible in terms of wearability and affordability. As a creative, I wanted to set out to offer products and garments with a designer attitude at a more accessible price point. As a consumer, I always shied away from hype in the search of things that last, so I want Pacifism to bring that to the market,” he said.
The brand’s debut collection features a focused edit of tracksuits, outerwear and denim with inspirations drawn from military garments.
“I wanted the collection to be synonymous with peace and harmony through its colors, motifs and meaning. We turned to articles of clothing used during times of war as inspiration, in order for the collection to explore the dichotomy between war and peace,” added Hizami.
Among the highlights is a quilted satin tracksuit that was inspired by Sukajan jackets, first worn by American soldiers “who were stationed in the Pacific theater at the end of the Second World War.”
There are also sweatshirts or tracksuit bottoms featuring subtle braided trims; a cool tailored coat with check panels in different shades of navy and gray; loose, high-waisted denim, and lightweight wool jackets with large flap pockets, inspired by the shirts worn by army nurses in the Fifties.
Prices range from 145 pounds for a sweatshirt to 650 pounds for a coat.
“It’s important for the brand as a whole to have a main theme, and for each garment to tell its own story, too,” added the designer.
For his debut collection, Hizami said he wanted to keep the launch focused on his own e-commerce platform. He will look to partner with retailers in upcoming seasons, particularly specialty multibrand stores.
Also in the works for next season is a presentation during Paris Fashion Week, a more unisex approach with a broader sizing offer and a bigger focus on outerwear and graphics.