As summer enters its final month, the fashion industry is gearing up for another show season, but it’s starting with a New York Fashion Week that’s a bit different from seasons past.
The biggest news for the spring 2020 collections is that NYFW will be on a shorter official schedule, down to six days of shows listed on the calendar released by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The initiative to trim down the schedule was spearheaded by the CFDA’s new chairman, designer Tom Ford, who assumed the role from longtime CFDA head, Diane von Furstenberg, in June. Upon his appointment as CFDA chairman, Ford said reinventing NYFW was a top priority.
From which designers are showing to Ford’s role as CFDA chairman, here is what to expect from NYFW spring 2020.
1. A shorter schedule for NYFW spring 2020
This September, the Council of Fashion Designers of America is introducing a shorter, more compact schedule for New York Fashion Week, decreasing to six days of runway shows and presentations. The schedule will now begin on Friday, Sept. 6 — with the first show a “performance” by Telfar — and will end on Wednesday, Sept. 11 with Marc Jacobs, who will close the season once again.
The schedule will include many familiar faces and brands returning to the NYFW runway, including Jeremy Scott, Khaite, Ulla Johnson, Christopher John Rogers, Christian Siriano, Brandon Maxwell, Tory Burch, Tibi, Jason Wu, Jonathan Simkhai, Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Christian Cowan, Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors, among others.
2. Designers pull shows from Hudson Yards following backlash against Stephen Ross
Backlash against Related Cos.’ chairman Stephen Ross was swift when news broke that the Hudson Yards real estate developer was hosting a fundraiser for President Donald Trump at his Hamptons home with tickets going up to $250,000. The news has led to many fashion designers pulling their upcoming NYFW shows from Hudson Yards, including Prabal Gurung — who was in talks to host his 10th anniversary show at The Vessel — and Rag & Bone, which is now looking at other venues for its spring 2020 show.
Ross’ fundraiser also caused Dana Lorenz, who runs the jewelry label Fallon, to pen a formal letter to CFDA chairman Tom Ford and chief executive officer Steven Kolb stating she is canceling her membership to the organization because Ross’ wife, fellow jewelry designer Kara Ross, holds a seat on the CFDA board.
3. This is the first NYFW with Tom Ford as CFDA chairman
This NYFW season marks the first for Tom Ford in his new role as chairman of the CFDA, succeeding Diane von Furstenberg, who held the role for 13 years. When it was revealed that Ford would take on the role, it was reported that one of the critical topics at the top of his agenda was reinventing NYFW, potentially moving its venue to The Shed at the recently opened Hudson Yards. The official venue for NYFW will remain at Spring Studios for this upcoming season.
4. Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya move their show from Paris to New York
Tommy Hilfiger is teaming with actress Zendaya once again for his TommyNow fashion show, this time bringing the event back to NYFW. The show will take place at the Apollo Theater in Harlem on Sept. 8 at 8:30 p.m. marking the second time the designer and actress are linking for the show, which was held in Paris in March. The Paris runway show gave a nod to the actual models who walked the runway at the historic “Battle of Versailles” fashion show competition in 1973, including Pat Cleveland and Beverly Johnson. Top models Halima Aden, Winnie Harlow and Jourdan Dunn also walked the disco-themed runway. Hilfiger’s upcoming show is said to continue the themes of inclusion, diversity and empowerment seen at his prior shows.
5. NYFW designers schedule change-up
While he has regularly opened NYFW in the past, Tom Ford is moving his show to Monday, Sept. 9, at 8 p.m. The official CFDA calendar lists Telfar as the opening show, with the brand putting on a “performance” at 6 p.m. on Friday, Sept. 6, for its collection.
Ralph Lauren, for another, is moving his show to a nighttime slot on Saturday, Sept. 7, at 9 p.m. Last season, the designer hosted his show in the morning at Ralph’s Coffee — an intimate eatery installed in his women’s flagship store on Madison Avenue — where guests enjoyed coffee and pastries as models walked between tables.
Returning to the NYFW schedule is Tomo Koizumi, the Tokyo-based designer who became a favorite of many in February for his over-the-top, rainbow tulle gowns. The designer was flown into NYFW last season to show at Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store after being discovered by stylist Katie Grand.
Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond will also be returning to the NYFW schedule after skipping last season, with a show slated for Saturday, Sept. 7, at 8 p.m.
6. Georgina Chapman is presenting her first solo Marchesa collection
After the departure of the brand’s cofounder, Keren Craig, in June, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman will go forward with her first solo collection. Instead of a presentation or runway show, Chapman is hosting private appointments for the brand’s spring 2020 collection on Wednesday, Sept. 11.
Marchesa has shown its collections in a private setting since news broke in 2017 of Chapman’s estranged husband, film producer Harvey Weinstein, and his multiple accusations of sexual assault.
Click through the above gallery to see all the fashion trends from NYFW fall 2019.
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WATCH: NYFW Fall 2019 Runway Recap