EASTWARD BOUND: After his first show for Marni at New York Fashion Week last month, sources say creative director Francesco Risso is eyeing staging a show in Tokyo next year, although details on the date and location are still under wraps.
Risso said at the time that the New York leg was the first of a series of traveling shows. “The most important thing is the connection between the maison and people engaged with Marni fully as our lovers,” he said then.
Renzo Rosso, founder of Marni parent OTB, has also said that the idea is to “bring energy and be closer to local customers. Marni is a global brand, but we also want to be close to the local culture and create products for specific local markets.”
The Marni show in New York was held under the Joralemon Tunnel in Brooklyn, which had a high-wattage front row, including Madonna, Kendall Jenner, Doja Cat, and James Harden, among others, and was set to music by Dev Hynes and The String Orchestra of Brooklyn.
Japan is historically a strong market for Marni, whose business is also solid in Korea and China in Asia. New stores in Seoul and Tokyo are in the pipeline.
Risso joined Marni in 2016, unveiling his first collection for the brand’s fall 2017 season, and succeeding the label’s artistic director Consuelo Castiglioni. In 2015, Rosso’s OTB group took full control of Marni, three years after acquiring a 61 percent stake in the Italian fashion company.
Risso, whose past experiences include the Prada Group and, previously, stints at Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Malo, has brought clashing prints, vibrant colors, deconstructed silhouettes, generous volumes and asymmetric cuts to Marni. The designer, who is also drawn to Surrealism, often injects naif or grungy vibes into the looks, which have a young and rebellious attitude.
While OTB does not break out revenues by brands, market sources peg Marni sales at more than 220 million euros, logging double-digit growth.