Winter 2015 just got that much cozier.
That’s thanks to Nick Wooster, who will be designing a capsule collection for the Woolmark Co. in collaboration with Swedish underwear brand The White Briefs, WWD has learned.
This story first appeared in the September 19, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The capsule is to span underwear, loungewear and “certain streetwear items to go with the story,” Wooster told WWD during a cocktail party at the British Embassy in Paris Wednesday night. There, Woolmark was celebrating its Campaign for Wool to raise global awareness for the product.
The idea behind the men’s capsule, slated to launch at Pitti Uomo in January, is “to fight misconceptions about wool,” explained Wooster, snapping pictures of a flock of sheep grazing on the embassy’s back lawn.
“I’ve always worn woolen socks. I think they are superior to other fibers because of their absorbency, because wool is sustainable and biodegradable, and let’s not forget that at the turn of last century all men’s undergarments were wool jersey,” he said, calling it “way more luxurious” than most people would think.
But is it itchy was a question of the evening.
Stuart McCullough, chief executive officer of Australian Wool Innovation and managing director of the Woolmark Co. in Australia, where 90 percent of the world’s apparel wool comes from, said that depends on the manufacturing.
“Your hair is keratin and wool is keratin; it’s the same chemical composition. What you’re feeling is fiber ends hitting sensitive parts of the skin, and that’s because they have not tucked them in and spun well,” he said. “If you use decent technology to spin and knit the fiber and then finish the fabric beautifully, it simply does not itch.”
Per year, Woolmark is investing 12 million Australian dollars, or $10.9 million at current exchange, in post-farm research and development, and another 18 million Australian dollars, or $16.3 million, into on-farm research, said McCullough.
Wooster assured “the fabrics we use will come from the research-and-development arm of what Woolmark does.”
The 10-piece capsule, comprising briefs, a T-shirt, tank top, leggings, shirts, long pants “and a couple of surprises, will be competitive but at the higher end,” according to the designer, who came dressed in a bespoke three-piece suit by Lardini, his other endeavor.