PARIS — As the rapid uptick in cases of the Omicron variant of COVID-19 in France throws uncertainty on January’s physical fashion calendar, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has released its provisional men’s schedule.
With 77 houses on the calendar, up from 72 last season, the fall 2022 calendar promises a bumper crop of 18 new names. Although physical events, if any, are yet to be confirmed, 42 shows and 35 presentations are planned between Jan. 18 to Jan. 23.
The hottest ticket in town will no doubt be Vtmnts’ first show, slated for Jan. 21 at 7:30 p.m., especially with Guram Gvasalia, cofounder, chief executive officer and now creative director of Vetements, saying that “it’s time to dare, to do things that are different.”
Launched as a new genderless brand with an ambitious manifesto that talks about revolution and redefining traditional luxury for the next generation, the new brand from Zürich-based Vetements made its debut last July with 100 looks featuring bar codes and a cryptic series of numbers — 83 836 36 87 — shown mainly on male models.
Bianca Saunders’ debut is equally anticipated. The 2021 ANDAM Fashion Prize winner will show in Paris for the first time at 10 a.m. on Jan. 19.
“Being in Paris is what really gives you more international credibility,” the London-based designer had told WWD in an interview where she revealed her five-year plan, which included working more in Paris and eventually moving her operation there.
Also making their on-schedule show debut are Amiri, led by CFDA men’s wear designer of the year Mike Amiri; Japanese brand Doublet, with its witty spins on themes as varied as world cuisine and zombies; buzzy young French duo Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix’s Egonlab, who took away the ANDAM’s Pierre Bergé Prize; American designer Colm Dillane’s art-inspired streetwear label Kidsuper; Danish waterproof contemporary lifestyle brand Rains, and the cheerful sporty-utilitarian bohemia of Bluemarble.
On Jan. 23, Kenzo will show the first collection of its new artistic director Nigo, Japanese streetwear pioneer and founder of cult brand A Bathing Ape.
New names on the presentation calendar are Lukhanyo Mdingi, who jointly won the Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize at this year’s LVMH Prize with Dillane and Rui Zhou; American labels Airei and Winnie; Liberal Youth Ministry; Taiwanese label Namesake, started by self-taught brothers Richard, Michael and Steve Hsieh; Singaporean design collective Youths in Baclava, and French designer Steven Passaro.
French heritage eyewear brand Vuarnet, which recently named Parisian designer Boramy Viguier as artistic director, will also be presenting its first full collection of technical clothing, nodding to mountaineering and expanding on its limited garment capsules over the years.
South Korean label Songzio is also returning to the French presentation calendar this season, while its compatriot Solid Homme, designed by Woo Young Mi — who is also the founder and creative director of men’s wear label Wooyoungmi, which will also show on schedule — comes to Paris after showing in Milan last season.
On Jan. 20, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten have shifted around, with the Belgian designer showing at 3:30 p.m., while the American designer moved from 12:30 to 8 p.m., and the French luxury heavyweight from 2:30 to 6:30 p.m.
Noteworthy absents from the preliminary calendar include Thom Browne, Burberry and J.W. Anderson.
As a footnote, the men’s calendar noted that Paco Rabanne and Alaïa would unveil their fall 2022 women’s rtw on the last day of men’s wear, showing respectively at 4:30 and 8:30 p.m., ahead of the start of the couture schedule.