Miuccia Prada

CRUISE CONTROL: After years of avoidance, is Miuccia Prada joining the cruise-show frenzy? Yes — and no. Prada will show her cruise 2018 collection formally on May 7 in Milan. But the extravaganza construct that has come to be associated with the season — the globe-trotting ways of Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and more recently, Valentino — is not her style. While most specifics under discussion (details leaked on Monday, including the size of the guest list, are being rethought) the date and location are certain. Prada will remain at home in Milan, where she will present the collection at Fondazione Prada’s L’Osservatorio space.

While Prada has long preferred to go low-key with cruise, she is experimental by nature. She has been particularly so in her approach to showing Miu Miu’s pre-collections, both cruise and pre-fall, which she typically unveils in Paris during the couture. Recent showings have ranged from a small in-store presentation to a raucous party to a creative static installation. As for the Prada collection, several years ago she started showing cruise on the runway in June alongside her men’s spring lineup. Prior to that, in a one-off event for the 2010 season, she arranged for a small showroom presentation in New York. The upcoming event marks the brand’s first full solo runway outing for cruise. The move will shift Prada to the front end of the resort calendar. In May, she will share the season’s early limelight that focuses on the aforementioned European majors at a time well before resort ennui sets in. And it always does, about midway through that interminably long season.

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