COUTURE CONVICTION: Italian label Redemption has a message to deliver with its first couture show: creative director Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti’s decision to show during Paris’ high-fashion week is a statement against what he describes as the industry’s fast-fashion mentality. “People just throw products out there and saturate the market with products people don’t need,” he said.
“It’s about margins rather than an inherent level of quality. The new form of rebellion right now is quality,” he continued. “I don’t want to oversaturate the market with products people don’t need; I want to see someone wearing one of our designs in 10 years’ time.”
Moratti’s philosophy is in tune with the brand’s philanthropic mentality. It makes all of its products in Italy and gives 50 percent of its profits to charity.
There is some strategic reasoning behind the decision, too: Moratti said the brand wants to deliver more of an editorial image with statement eveningwear pieces, and has seen strong demand from celebrity stylists looking for dressy looks.
Redemption will show 23 spring looks with an “aristo-punk” theme at the Jan. 23 show, a lineup that will be spread equally between evening gowns, cocktailwear and pantsuits, which are the brand’s bestsellers. Certain pieces will be one-offs, while others will be offered at retail.
Designing the collection has allowed Moratti more creative freedom, he said. “We have always sold what goes into the show. We could and did take some more creative liberties,” he said. “[Our collections have] always sold really well, but don’t have huge editorial value. We need to [offer] more product with that ‘wow’ factor.”
Redemption is also showing a pre-fall lineup and will reveal its fall ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week in late February or early March.