Renzo Rosso

GROWING MARNI: Renzo Rosso has big plans for Marni’s men’s wear. “I want to make it much bigger,” said Rosso, founder of parent company OTB, ahead of the show Saturday of the  first collection designed by Francesco Risso. He follows in the footsteps of Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who exited the brand last year. “It should expand as a global label,” he explained, noting how Marni’s men’s division “was small and mainly strong in Asia.” Asked about Risso, the entrepreneur said he did not want to “enter into the creative sphere,” but praised the designer’s understanding of the needs of today’s customer and market. “He is young and is bringing an added touch of freshness and modernity, while safekeeping Marni’s DNA. His skills range from expertise in virtual communication to design and photography,” observed Rosso.

Francesco Risso marni

Francesco Risso takes a bow after his first show for Marni.  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

In October, Castiglioni said she was parting ways with Marni. Her husband Gianni, who held the title of president and who co-created the company in 1994, also left, as did their two children — Carolina, director of special projects, and Giovanni, who worked in the operations department.

Risso, a Prada alum, succeeded Castiglioni as creative director of the label. OTB, which owns brands including Diesel,  Maison Margiela and Viktor & Rolf, took full control of Marni in 2015.