MATCH POINT: Ruffian’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais may have just introduced their spring collection, but it’s hardly R&R time for the designers. Instead, they’re busy at work on a new line, this one for Anthropologie. The duo recently signed a four-collection deal with the retailer, the first of which will land in 55 stores in November. Named Mise en Scene (“the complete aesthetic, or the gestalt,” says Wolk), the lineup features both clothes and housewares. The sartorial stuff includes a Forties-inspired camel coat, silk dresses and blouses with an original print designed by the pair, as well as hand-seamed hosiery. As for the home, there are candles produced by French firm Cire Trudon and silver degradé glasses. (For spring, Wolk and Morais are drumming up a bigger collection, one that will include bedding.) Wendy Wurtzburger, Anthropologie’s chief merchandising officer, worked closely with the designers for the collection. “There’s really something special and so accessible and beautiful about it,” she said. “They really pushed to have what was right for their aesthetic but also what would be right for our customer. They’re so great at creating magic and mystery.”

This story first appeared in the September 21, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

PEA POWER: The Black Eyed Peas rocked Hennes & Mauritz’s new Tokyo Shibuya flagship Thursday night with a special DJ/karoke-style performance broadcast to passersby via a large screen on the store’s facade. Fergie, clad in a green tank top and baggy gray pants, belted out crowd favorites like Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin’” and The Rolling Stones’ “Satisfaction” as her bandmates, and Taboo manned a laptop and turntables. The 30,000-square-foot store, which opened Saturday, is H&M’s fifth outpost in Japan. A fourth Tokyo store will open later this fall, while H&M’s first Osaka store is slated for the spring. H&M’s Japan chief Christine Edman, who grew up in Tokyo, said the Shibuya opening has a special significance for her. “I’m just really excited…to be able to open in Shibuya, somewhere that I used to shop as a teenager,” she said.

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW: Last June, when Yves Saint Laurent recut some of its iconic styles in leftover cotton drill fabric for Barneys New York, the collection sold out in a matter of days. Now Stefano Pilati is doing an encore on a larger scale for holiday retailing. The YSL Edition New Vintage collection will comprise a numbered range of archival styles in various fabrics from the Paris firm’s inventory. Distribution will be through YSL flagships in Paris, London, Milan, New York and Hong Kong starting in early December, a YSL spokesman said. While hardly a standard eco collection, the “new vintage” project has elements of reuse and recycling that clearly resonates with consumers.

SHADY CHARACTERS: Three hot London designers are making it in the shade. Marios Schwab, due to show his collection in London today, is expected to unveil models from a new sunglass collaboration with Mykita. The Berlin-based firm previewed samples of the new line at the Silmo eyewear show in Paris over the weekend, including small stainless steel shades inspired by ones popular among clubbers in the Eighties. Meanwhile, word has it Erdem and Giles have each collaborated on spring eyewear lines with Cutler & Gross. Giles Deacon, who will present his catwalk show in Paris this season, has been a customer of Cutler & Gross for years and wears glasses, sunglasses and swimming goggles by the brand.


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