WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT: Sarah Rutson was holding court at the Yoox Net-a-porter Group headquarters in Manhattan on Thursday afternoon for the retailer’s seasonal press day presentation, during which the vice president of global buying detailed 11 trends from the spring 2016 runways with a video accompaniment.
Among her top trends were “The Romantic Heroine,” best demonstrated on the runways of Alexander McQueen; “The Shoulder Focus” with an emphasis on off-the-shoulder dresses and tops (“It’s the one part of your body that never ages,” Rutson said with a laugh), and “The New Fluidity,” seen on the runways of Altuzarra and Anthony Vaccarello. “Fluidity is the new sexy,” Rutson stated matter-of-factly. “It’s not about bodycon anymore. It’s about how a woman uses her body in movement, about how the fabrics just peel away and they’re just so light, fluid and soft.”
In addition, Rutson also called out the season’s return to various moods of the Nineties — such as minimalism, utility detailing, riffs on rave culture — and particularly those “cool-girl wardrobe essentials” like vintage track pants and lingerie-inspired slipdresses. Another runway favorite of Rutson’s: new takes on shirting. “It’s the fundamental workhouse of the wardrobe, the design staple: the shirt,” Rutson said. “[For spring] it became runway-worthy, a statement piece.” She cited the deconstructed shirts at Jacquemus and Monse among her favorites. As for accessories, Rutson predicted that shoulder-grazing earrings, slip-on flats, block heels and top-handle bags will be among the season’s bestsellers.
Discussing the retailer’s spring buy, Rutson named her top five high-end designers for the season, calling Alessandro Michele’s reinvention of Gucci and Sarah Burton’s spring collection at Alexander McQueen “game changers.” Givenchy, Chloé and Dolce & Gabbana also topped her list, with Jacquemus and Vetements among a selection of “new wave,” emerging designers she’s stocking up on for the season. In the contemporary space, Rutson cited Joseph, Self-Portrait and Marques’ Almeida among the brands she’s most excited about. “Contemporary isn’t just about a price point,” she said. “These designers have got their own point of view, and they’re owning their space. It’s a lot of design for not a huge amount of money.”