PERMANENT HOME: If you’re looking for Cardi B’s Schiaparelli blazer with the golden nipple patches, Bergdorf Goodman has you covered.
On Oct. 12, Schiaparelli will unveil a boutique on the fourth floor of the New York department store, marking the first time since it was relaunched by Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle in 2012 that the Paris couture house has opened a permanent space outside its salon on Place Vendôme.
Now in its third year under creative director Daniel Roseberry, the brand gained momentum during the pandemic, with key moments including Lady Gaga performing the national anthem at the inauguration of U.S. President Joe Biden in a Schiaparelli jacket and skirt, topped with a gilded brooch shaped like a dove.
The retail expansion marks the next step. “It’s a real turning point and it’s really thrilling,” Delphine Bellini, chief executive officer of Schiaparelli, told WWD. “The fall-winter collection is selling very well. It signals that business is taking off and will continue to grow and develop.”
“Our mission is to build an alternative couture house, and our luxury ready-to-wear line presents us with the opportunity to do so,” Roseberry said in a statement. “This incredible retail partner understands our mission and provides the perfect environment.”
Designed by Roseberry in collaboration with architect Daniel Romualdez, the space was inspired by the original decor of founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s salons in Paris and features galvanized metal racks, in an echo of the gold hardware that Roseberry has made a signature of the label.
The shop-in-shop will offer ready-to-wear alongside leather goods, jewelry and made-to-order items, as well as an exclusive capsule collection of 10 cocktail dresses.
“The U.S. is our biggest market today, whether for haute couture or ready-to-wear. Historically, it’s also been one of the most important markets for the house,” Bellini said. “Since the relaunch, we’ve developed a faithful, knowledgeable customer base that really appreciates the way that Daniel is approaching the collections.”
Business is also growing in Europe, Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Asia, suggesting that further retail expansion could be in the cards. “We have a growing number of clients of all ages. Some are in their twenties, others are in their fifties, but each has found their wardrobe and their way of twisting the pieces,” Bellini said.
To celebrate the opening, Bergdorf Goodman will devote three windows to the brand’s fall collection.