MOVES LIKE JAGGER: Mick Jagger has been a fashion icon for more than 50 years — and the musician proved he’s still a trendsetter in Chicago when The Rolling Stones kicked off their “No Filter” North American tour with two shows at Soldier Field. The second show was Tuesday.
Over a two-hour set that spanned hits like “Jumpin’ Jack Flash,” “Paint It Black,” “Gimme Shelter” and “Satisfaction,” the 75-year-old Stones frontman strutted, sprinted and grooved all over the stage — remarkable, considering he underwent heart surgery in April and was forced to postpone the tour.
Changing outfits numerous times as the band moved through the songs, Jagger opened the tour wearing a sharply tailored black-and-white diamond intarsia leather bomber jacket with a silk lining — one of his many pieces created for the tour by London-based designer Jane Hayward.
“Mick is always keen to evolve his look for every tour and is closely involved,” said Hayward, who has been designing Jagger’s tour clothes since 2014. “For this part of the ‘No Filter’ tour, leather biker and speedway jackets were referenced and reworked in bold colors and graphics with sportswear details. This was an evolution from the sharp colorblocking from the previous [European] tour.”
Hayward began design work for this tour in October.
“There is so much work involved in the development of the hand embroideries and prints as well as couture tailoring construction techniques,” Hayward said. “The work is carefully considered and time-consuming. Many hours of work go into each piece, from the design stage through to the construction.”
For the tour, classic men’s tuxedos, tails and evening shirts were updated in new proportions, bright colors and with handmade embroideries, she noted, and images from nature and fantasy inspired new prints on silk bomber jackets and shirts.
In total, the designer created about 40 stand-alone pieces. They “can be styled together and work with favorite pieces from the earlier European part of the tour and always worn with his favorite dark rock ‘n’ roll jeans,” Hayward said.
Jagger’s got the moves, so function was key to designing his stage wardrobe.
“As well as looking good, the ability to move freely and not be restricted by the clothes are crucial,” Hayward said. “So a lot of time is spent fine-tuning the patterns and fit with Mick’s tailor Owen Gaster to allow for movement on stage while maintaining a sharp cut.”
In terms of fabric, high-quality silks were used for comfort and smoothness, plus they’re lightweight and “take color and print beautifully,” she noted. The designer has also used soft, lightweight leathers.
“Garments have to perform. Fabrics have to be tough and construction robust as Mick is so energetic on stage and jackets can get thrown around,” Hayward said.
Every detail of what the lead singer might wear on stage is considered — from the position of the prints to the embroideries on each garment.
“Many embroidery trials and print swatches are launched to perfect colorways and how they perform under the lights,” she said. “The most important thing is that Mick looks and feels good on stage.”
This full-scope design-meets-stage execution was evident in songs like “Sympathy for the Devil.” As Jagger launched into the lyrics, “Please allow me to introduce myself, I’m a man of wealth and taste, I’ve been around for a long, long year, stole many a man’s soul to waste,” his shiny blue and gold ombré sequin jacket—which, according to Hayward, was a gift to Jagger from Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, who will be dressing Jagger for his next tour – sparkled and changed colors under the fiery red and orange lights and provided contrast against his black shirt, dark jeans and black fedora hat.
The Rolling Stones “No Filter” tour is on the road with next stops in Ontario on June 29, followed by Washington, D.C., on July 3. The tour wraps up in Miami on Aug. 31.