GOGGLE EYED: There was more buzz than usual at the Central Saint Martins MA fashion show thanks to a new sponsorship deal with Three, the mobile network provider. Show guests including Andrew Garfield, Jourdan Dunn, Heron Preston and members of the “Sex Education” cast Ncuti Gatwa and Tanya Reynolds, were trying out high-tech 5G goggles before the show during London Fashion Week – and generating media assets in the process.
Twenty-five designers were selected to present their graduate collections at the college’s Granary Square campus, quite a crowd compared to the 10-12 students that the late Professor Louise Wilson would usually put on her runway. “It’s good to be generous and they are there for a reason,” said Fabio Piras, course director of Central Saint Martins MA Fashion. “We are never nice. We are very critical,” he said following the show.
Goom Heo, whose men’s collection was edgy and street with lots of flowing fabrics, and Sheryn Akiki, whose elegant women’s wear collection channeled an undone “lady on the run,” won the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award in this ever more inclusive year with regard to gender, identity and the international profile of students.
Stavros Karelis, who judged the award this year, said Heo “really understands everything that’s happening with the men’s wear world at the moment. What she presented today is already a brand for me.” He added that Akiki “has a great story to tell. She brings a multicultural point of view and has some very strong things to say about femininity. I find her work really touching.”
Under the guidance of designer Nasir Mazhar, men’s wear students put on a strong show. Among them, Kaushik Velendra’s finely tailored pieces stood out. The Indian designer had worked in Bollywood as a costume designer before coming to London. “The whole collection is super-tailored and super-futuristic. I want to push the boundary of modern tailoring in every possible way,” said Velendra.
Some students showed promising skills with their graduate work. Min Kim’s intricate work, making wool look like python, would work at many an Italian fashion house. Friederike Stanitzek would be a great catch for Marni’s textile team with her colorful, playful and patterned collection while Erika Maish would be an asset for a brand such as Paco Rabanne, given her way with beading and metal chains.