MATERIAL GIRL: “It’s really, really slow fashion,” said Vanessa Schindler who will present a capsule of evening-based looks hand-crafted in her studio in Geneva at the upcoming edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, as last year’s winner of the Grand Prize and Public and City of Hyères awards for the fashion section.
Schindler impressed a jury headed by Schiaparelli’s Bertrand Guyon with her otherworldly collection — “Urethane Pool, Chapitre 2” — based on cinematic silhouettes combining synthetic, interiors-inspired materials with urethane, a chemical resin that joins fabrics together when it dries.
This time around, she’s pushed the concept further, experimenting with new ways to build garments using the translucent, rubbery material. “The pieces are pretty much drawn with urethane,” said the designer, describing a voluminous pink wavy dress made by stretching a fabric and covering it with urethane to fix it. It also features embroidery by Maison Lesage.
The designer has also collaborated with knitwear specialist Cécile Feilchenfeldt on three pieces “drawn” with the material. “We basically filled urethane shapes with knits,” said Schindler.
The designer, who is “fascinated by the Fifties and Sixties, and interior design,” plans to work to her own schedule and focus on small editions. Urethane and pearl earrings she designed for her first Hyères collection will go on sale on her web site by mid-May, with the new collection to go on sale by the summer. She’ll produce short runs of garments, made “one by one.”
Schindler can also do commercial, though, with a five-piece capsule for Petit Bateau due to launch in time for the festival, which will run April 26 to April 30.
For that, the designer played on their shared passion for lines, mixing her fluid and instinctive aesthetic with the brand’s classic straight stripes.
A white T-shirt edged with blue lines sports asymmetric undulating lines on the sleeves, hem and neckline. Wavy lines also edge her shirt-cum-trench coat spin on the house’s iconic raincoat, and disrupt the signature Petit Bateau marinière stripe using large vertical brushstrokes on a long belted dress that can be worn front- or backwards.
The capsule will go on line on April 25 on the Petit Bateau e-shop and in a selection of the brand’s stores worldwide, and will be available in the Hyères festival boutique.
Schindler is the fifth winner to benefit from the partnership, following the footsteps of Satu Maaranen, Kenta Matsushige, Annelie Schubert and Wataru Tominaga.