There was plenty of hubbub surrounding the celebrities sitting front row on the spring couture circuit.
Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner caused an uproar upon arriving at Schiaparelli — the former dripped in 30,000 red crystals, while the latter wore a modified version of the velvet gown topped with a faux taxidermy lion’s head that would later be seen on Irina Shayk.
These women may have been merely a sideshow to the creative circus that was Daniel Roseberry’s Dante’s Inferno-inspired collection, but their ability to draw attention their bodies spoke to a larger trend that unfolded on runways — a major emphasis on the waist.
Tailoring with curvaceous lines inspired by Schiaperelli’s signature perfume bottle offered a wearable counterpoint to some of Roseberry’s more outlandish looks. The house, “has a real — and thriving — couture business that caters to women with practical needs,” observed WWD’s Miles Socha in his review, noting that the designer, “addressed these with a plethora of black evening gowns, and hourglass jackets that were laced down the back, corset-style.”
Jean Paul Gaultier’s anthropomorphic fragrances led to plenty of corsetry in Haider Ackermann’s takeover as well, while Giorgio Armani and Robert Wun emphasized the mid-section by taking pierrot-like ruffs off of the neck and placing them around the hips. Miss Sohee did the same, but with sequin petals that enveloped her models turning them into actual femme-fleurs.
But still, what would a couture season be without myriad references to Christian Dior’s full-skirted new look from 1947? Maria Grazia Chiuri, inspired by Josephine Baker’s boyishly cut costumes, sat this one out. Not to worry because the likes of Valentino, Viktor & Rolf and Virginie Viard at Chanel showed larger-than-life princess silhouettes to set every Cinderella’s heart aflutter.