Proportions played a big role for fall as designers experimented with volume and exaggerated shapes. Exquisite rich textured fabrics, bright colors and prints also took center stage. Nothing encapsulated all these elements better than the statement coat. A favorite among retailers, the faux-fur top coat by Saint Laurent is a head-turning example of where Anthony Vaccarello brought 1930s old Parisian glamour to the forefront.
Other highlights include Max Mara and its hope for a cozy, long winter with a chic take on après-ski for fall — resulting in an array of bold coats that favored teddy-bear fabric, thick wools and quilting. “I was thinking of wintery winter. I think we have a nostalgia for the alpine environment, for the cold,” Ian Griffiths, Max Mara’s designer said of the floor-sweeping volume coats that seemed the perfect choice to weather the elements.
When it came to prints and the fun side of the trends, no one delivered a more energetic and on-point assortment than Richard Quinn. Set in an all pink room, models strutted wearing huge volume retro floral coats — some stiffened by protective quilting effects and intricate embroideries. “It’s all protection,” Quinn said. “It’s more about fashion as an armor.” And fashion it was.
Prada delivered a lineup full of oversized outerwear styles. Masculine-inspired top coats were updated by adding fake fur and feathered bicep cuffs in contrasting colors. The outerwear selection also included larger-than-life shearlings and bombers. Down-filled, floor-length puffers were also a favorite style of the season. Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson, Donatella Versace and Dion Lee were some of the few designers who experimented with volume through quilting effects.
But faux fur was the leading style of this head-turning category, used by the likes of Stella McCartney, Coperni, Sacai, Michael Kors and Saint Laurent, to name a few.