Puffers were scarce on the Milan catwalks, but outerwear specialists know that outside the fashion circuit, customers won’t give up on them anytime soon.
Trying to update the outerwear staple, brands embraced different routes: pop colors, captivating patchworks and high-end materials, often sustainably sourced.
Herno showed its fall collection together with wall tapestries by artist Pae White, emphasizing its chromatic inspiration. For the first time, the brand’s signature down jacket was offered printed with the archival monogram fabric. Their oversize bomber in a checkered fabric and a black curly faux shearling coat were on trend. Herno further invested in the research of materials, presenting outerwear in Neoprene and techno satin, or in a 20-denier nylon with a double dye and an iridescent effect.
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For its lifestyle offering, performance-driven brand Canadian added more fashion zing with shimmering surfaces appearing on hooded jacket, high-collared parkas and cropped puffers done in a strong color palette spanning from fuchsia to a brownish silver, as well as leopard print motifs in black or gray. An interesting seasonal addition to the brand’s signature styles, the vest came in a woven pattern that added an unexpected twist.
Similarly, Alabama Muse, the faux fur brand founded stylist and fashion editor Alice Gentilucci, delivered on bold colors. Aquamarine, zingy orange and violet appeared on a range of edgy oversize coats crafted from recycled polyester fur supplied by Mitsui & Co.’s Tissavel. Inspired by the atmospheres of David Lynch’s and Quentin Tarantino’s movies, the collection of retro-tinged, voluminous styles was worn by women and men alike and topped with busbies.
Pop-tinged hues and an irreverent aesthetic also resonated in the Oof Wear fall collection, which took a cue from the ‘80s (Milan’s Paninari came to mind) with flamboyant patchworks of materials, textures and patterns such as leopard patterned fake fur combined with fleece and nylon or anoraks with nylon backs and fake fur fronts, the latter bearing joyous florals. Vinyl-looking padded bomber jackets mingled with more subdued options, such as quilted capes and robe coats.
Contrasting textures were also on display at Husky, which updated its signature quilted hunting jacket in more shapely iterations with suede collars, flap pockets and elbow patches. The entire collection was built on classics such as the parka embellished with floral embroideries at the back and the biker-style quilted jacket in shiny nylon.
At Bacon, Andrea Pilato Barrara managed to elevate outerwear via new renditions of its signature puffer styles. Cue a ruby red long vest with shawled collar crafted from a high-tech textile treated with marble dust for a velvety effect. Anoraks and rain capes were cut on the bias and featured interesting color combinations of red and violet, while a new magnified houndstooth pattern was part of Bacon’s 10+1 capsule crafted from high-end textiles by Colombo Industrie Tessili.
Budapest-based brand Cukovy, founded in 2014 and rebooted as an outerwear specialist during the pandemic, offered an answer to multifunctionality and layering needs by building its fall collection on detachable hoodies, puffer scarves and zippers to adapt outerwear to different weather condition and styling needs. While working a muted color palette of matte blacks, blues and grays, the brand added bright fuchsia and watermelon red iterations.