The reconsideration of classic sportswear tropes emerged as a key theme for spring. The single most worked item: a good old pair of jeans. It appeared on countless runways, often in very standard forms, sometimes ripped to precise imperfection.
But there were also more interesting iterations from designers intent on making fashion steeped in familiarity that is still designed and distinctive. Jeans ranged from Olivier Rousteing’s colorful sexpot suits for Balmain to Marc Jacobs’ diagonal denim. The white tank top got attention, as well. For his Rebook by Pyer Moss collaboration, Kerby Jean-Raymond reimagined the tank as a chic jumpsuit in recycled polyester, while Dries Van Noten used it as a base for his wondrous collection designed with (Mr.) Christian Lacroix that referenced couture while featuring sweatshirts and parkas. Rokh’s Rok Hwang nodded to Americana in a show based on a cross-country road trip his family took when he was a kid. His polo shirt with a long flowy skirt worn over sneakers would suit a type-A cheerleader too busy to shop for prom. As for fashion’s maestro of Americana, Michael Kors showed a pullover-and-pants look in red, white and blue, the sweater emblazoned with a thick line crossing out the word “HATE.” Love it!