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Men'sWeek issue 02/20/2014

The Las Vegas men’s shows — Project, MAGIC Men’s, Pool, Liberty, Agenda, Capsule and MRket — were full of saleable options for retailers for fall. Here, a look at some of the standouts.

RELATED STORY: Retailers Tap Into New ‘Ath-Leisure’ in Las Vegas >>

This story first appeared in the February 20, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Brand: Vans

Key styles: VF Corp.-owned Vans spotlighted capsule collections with “Star Wars” imagery, a collaboration with surfboard fin brand Captain Fin Co. and an elevated California range.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: Vans believes “Star Wars’” characters like Yoda and Darth Vader resonate with its target male customers ages 16 to 24. The Captain Fin Co. pieces incorporate its anchor logo and color palette of gold, burgundy and black. The more sophisticated California collection is aimed at the older end of its target consumers.

Prices: From $22 to $100, with the California collection more expensive than the others


Brand: VDE, which stands for Vanteria di Eleganza, or “bragging of elegance” in Italian

Designer: Reggie Aguiluz

Key styles: Zippered, hooded jackets with nylon, cotton, spandex and polyester, athletic samurai pants in imported Japanese-milled oil-treated nylon and cotton, or nylon and cotton with bias paneling.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: Aguiluz is enthusiastic about adding high-fashion touches to sporty styles. He envisions the VDE customer as “someone who’s an athlete who likes to look good, but is a sports fanatic.”

Prices: $32 to $295


Brand: KNYEW, which stands for Keeping New York Every Where and is pronounced “new”

Designers: Richard Sung, who goes by his DJ name Crooked, and Ray Anthony

Key styles: Sung and Anthony make statements with their atypical silhouettes, notably T-shirts finished with high-low and scalloped bottoms that are four to six inches longer than regular Ts, short raglan-sleeved hoodies with button closures on the hoods, and tapered knee-length, drop-crotch sweat shorts.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: “I’m all about the silhouettes. I want to modernize basics,” said Sung, a New Yorker who started KNYEW to fill a void in the streetwear market in his adopted home of Las Vegas.

Prices: $48 to $120

NEXT: Staple >>

Brand: Staple

Designers: Jeff Staple, aka Jeff Ng, is creative director and founder, and Courtney Walker is design director.

Key styles: T-shirts with scalloped bottoms that mimic baseball jerseys, football jerseys with pigeon-wing designs and Navajo-patterned trim, and shirts with nylon shaped into chevrons atop cotton.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: The influence of sports on its collection is increasing, Walker said. In addition, “Prints are starting to fade and fabrications are coming on strong,” he said, pointing to a mix of twill with nylon and cotton jersey in the same garment.

Prices: $28 to $100

NEXT: Bill’s Khakis >>

Brand: Bill’s Khakis

Designer: Bill Thomas

Key styles: Khakis are available with a lower rise and trimmer fit, five-pocket jeans are offered in distressed washed finishes, and collared shirts are more tailored and slim.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: Long revered for its superior-fitting casual pants, the brand has branched out into a new arena with the fall launch of Tea Label. Named after British soldiers who dyed their white uniforms with tea in the 1840s, the contemporary collection is all American-made.

Prices: Pants will retail for $125 to $195, and wovens from $145 to $155.

NEXT: Tiger of Sweden >>

Brand: Tiger of Sweden

Key styles: Classic tailored men’s wear staples are given a twist in pieces such as a Harris tweed bomber jacket, elongated sweaters and a shadow-plaid sport coat.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: After more than a 20-year absence, the venerable European brand is returning to the States for fall with a full collection for men and women. The collection features quality fabrics and updated styling in everything from jeans and sweaters to shearlings and leathers.

Prices: A leather motorcycle jacket is $725, and a military-inspired parka is $525.

NEXT: Asphalt Yacht Club >>

Brand: Asphalt Yacht Club

Designers: Professional skateboarder Stevie Williams founded Asphalt Yacht Club, and the creative director is Peter Huynh.

Key styles: Flannels with a vintage Americana feel, oxford shirts with Asphalt’s logo on the pockets, and khaki pants and boardshorts accented with floral prints.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: Brand manager Richard Marshall said the brand is designed with the “modern young man” in mind, who isn’t boxed into one particular community or culture. “He listens to Jay Z and The Black Keys. He wears Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs, and he wears Vans and RVCA,” he elaborated. “We take the best of each subculture in skate and street fashion and blend.”

Prices: $30 to $160 retail

NEXT: Smathers & Branson >>

Brand: Smathers & Branson

Key styles: Belts and related products offer a wide range of patterns including college logos and everything from professional sports teams to golf flags, Jolly Rogers and colorful stripes. For fall, the brand has begun dabbling in polo shirts as well.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: Founded in 2004 by two college buddies, the Bethesda, Md.-based company started life as a needlepoint belt brand. It works with skilled artisans in Vietnam and now employs thousands of stitchers to create a full line of accessories that range from wallets and key fobs to flip-flops and coasters, all with a preppy sensibility.

Prices: Belts retail for $165, key fobs are $28.50, hats are $35 and flip-flops are $89.50.

NEXT: Beretta >>

Brand: Beretta

Key styles: The Vintage Years collection, which has been sold in Europe for years, is now available in America. It includes a Teflon-coated, water-repellent jacket, as well as a waxed cotton plaid hunting jacket.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: With a history that dates back more than 500 years, Beretta has built its reputation servicing the sporting man. All of its styles feature technical elements and functional features such as covered buttons that won’t scratch a hunter’s gun.

Prices: $800 to $900

NEXT: Grenson >>

Brand: Grenson

Key styles: A classic derby, a brogue and a plain derby in black, brown and tan

Design inspiration/aesthetic: The U.K.-based footwear brand is offering a new range for fall called The Triple Welt. Based on a Norwegian style featuring a ripply edge on the top welt, the shoes are all handmade in England. They will launch with a pop-up shop at Freemans Sporting Club in New York on Monday before expanding distribution for fall.

Prices: $835 retail

NEXT: Chamula >>

Brand: Chamula

Designer: Yuki Matsuda

Key styles: The hat design was inspired by Fifties ski resorts and features a pom-pom at the top. Patterns range from solid fisherman cable knits to colorful Fair Isles.

Design/inspiration: Hand-knit in a small village in southern Mexico, Chamula uses wool from sheep that graze in the remote mountains in that region, resulting in a unique, soft range of offerings.

Prices: $70 to $90 retail

NEXT: Aloha Sunday >>

Brand: Aloha Sunday

Designer: Kahana Kalama

Key styles: The fall assortment is based on vintage Hawaiian motifs modernized for today, and each category is designed for a specific occasion, such as patterned swimwear for the beach in Maui or a blanket coat with toggle closures for the Aspen mountains.

Design/inspiration: The resort-inspired collection of swimwear, sportswear and outerwear is all made in the U.S. and designed by Kahana Kalama, a Hawaii-born former pro surfer. The name derives from a Hawaiian expression, Aloha Friday, the celebration of the end of a work week.

Prices: Swimwear, available year-round, ranges from $80 to $160; wovens average $150, and outerwear is $300 to $400.

NEXT: Weiss Watch Co. >>

Brand: Weiss Watch Co.

Designer: Cameron Weiss

Key styles: For the first season, Weiss has created a field watch with a variety of straps and faces in a polished or matte finish. All feature a display case back.

Design/inspiration: Owner Cameron Weiss cut his teeth learning the art of watchmaking at a prestigious Swiss school, followed by on-the-job training at two Switzerland-based watch brands. Weiss has taken those skills back home to the U.S. and is building what he bills as America’s first luxury watch brand.

Prices: Around $1,000

NEXT: Enter >>

Brand: Enter

Key styles: Vintage-inspired duffles, briefcases, backpacks and laptop cases are made from heavy canvas and vegetable-tanned leathers, most in earth tones with pops of color such as red or yellow.

Design/inspiration: The Stockholm-based brand was born about a decade ago out of a love for vintage apparel and fabrics. The headquarters is in an old section of the city in a building that dates from the 1500s.

Prices: Canvas products retail for around $270, while all-leather models average $380.

NEXT: St. Moritz >>

Brand: St. Moritz

Key styles: Ski sweaters with a snowflake logo — the brand’s trademark — as well as chunky hand-knit cardigans.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: The Italian brand offers ski-inspired knitwear with a true resort feeling. The sweaters are hand-knit in Europe from washed lamb’s wool.

Prices: $275 to $295

NEXT: Nudie Jeans Co. >>

Brand: Nudie Jeans Co.

Key styles: The new black selvage program offers a Thirties-inspired workwear jacket with back pleats and gunmetal details and red interior trim. Jeans are produced from the same organic Japanese fabrics and are 13.5 ounces.

Design/inspiration: The Sweden-based denim company is elevating its offering for fall with a black selvage program that will complement its signature blue denim range.

Prices: Jeans will retail for $249, and the jacket is $399.

NEXT: Benson >>

Brand: Benson

Key styles: Merino and acrylic sweatpants, cashmere waffle-knit sweaters and acid-wash T-shirts and fleece pieces are some of the key pieces this season for the quintessential American label.

Design/inspiration: Although always a favorite of skiwear and outdoors retailers, the New York-based sportswear brand is moving into an even more active-inspired direction with its fall collection.

Prices: The majority of the collection will retail for under $100, but the sweatpants are $148 and the cashmere sweater is $380.

NEXT: Den im by Siki Im >>

Brand: Den im by Siki Im

Key styles: Jeans are offered in slim, peg and classic cuts from Cone Mills denim and include hidden shank buttons and shaped knee darts, among other updated details. The tops are 100 percent cotton and offer ergonomic cuts in layering Ts, crewnecks and track jackets. There are also chinos, sweatpants and terry shorts.

Design/inspiration: A lower-priced collection from the designer, whose background includes stints at Helmut Lang and Karl Lagerfeld, the line offers jeans as well as fleece and jerseys, all made in America.

Prices: Everything retails for less than $300.

NEXT: Clocks and Colours >>

Brand: Clocks and Colours

Key styles: Polished silver rings, tie clips, pendants and bracelets with a variety of patterns including skulls and other embellishments

Design/inspiration: For the past three years, Shane Vitaly has offered a lifestyle streetwear jewelry line under the Vitaly name. For fall, he’s branching out into a “more refined” sterling silver collection under the Clocks and Colours moniker that is inspired by motorcycle culture.

Prices: Tie clips retail for $120, and a solid silver cuff with oxidized stones is $1,000.

NEXT: Earnest Sewn >>

Brand: Earnest Sewn

Key styles: Jeans styles range from slouchy, slim and skinny to straight in finishes that run the gamut from raw to dark. There’s also stretch denim and a winter white offering.

Design/inspiration: The brand, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, has relaunched its denim collection with cleaner finishes and a more modern range of silhouettes.

Prices: Jeans sell from $145 to $245 for the Japanese selvage.

NEXT: Norman Russell >>

Brand: Norman Russell

Key styles: A leather jacket with a plaid interior, chambray shirts and a range of jeans in a variety of washes

Design/inspiration: The artisan denim brand offers limited-edition jeans — only 270 pieces per fit, per wash — and complementary shirts and jackets that are described as the “GQ man’s workwear.” The label takes inspiration from “the strength, durability and ruggedness of generations of denim manufacturing.”

Prices: Jeans average around $285, shirts are $188 to $198 and the leather jacket is $1,200.

NEXT: J. Lindeberg >>

Brand: J. Lindeberg

Key styles: Washed plaid shirts, textured wool knit pants, modern suits and a burgundy double-breasted topcoat

Design/inspiration: The theme for the Swedish-based collection this season is hidden beauty, an inspiration that translates into outerwear pieces featuring technical features and wool pants with subtle plaid patterns.

Prices: Shirts retail for $185 to $240; suits are $850 to $1,000, and outerwear is $700 to $850.

NEXT: Canada Goose >>

Brand: Canada Goose

Key styles: Parkas, many with coyote-fur trim on the hoods, feature taped seams, stretch panels, upgraded zippers and a black leather patch to differentiate the Branta brand from Canada Goose’s main line.

Design/inspiration: The venerable Toronto-based outerwear company has introduced an elevated brand for fall under the Branta label. Featuring Loro Piana Storm System fabrics, elevated linings and slimmer, more modern silhouettes, the line is targeted to the customer seeking a technologically superior product that doesn’t look too sporty.

Prices: The collection ranges from $750 to $1,900.

NEXT: Coast-Wide >>

Brand: Coast-Wide

Key styles: The button-down chambray shirts feature vintage-inspired yokes and pockets with a variety of embroidered accents that range from arrowheads to moons and several colorful Native American-inspired patterns.

Design/inspiration: Coast-Wide’s denim shirts were popular with coal miners in the Forties and have been reworked for today’s customers by using Japanese fabrics that are then hand-embroidered in Los Angeles in limited runs.

Prices: $225 to $475 retail

NEXT: Marc Ecko Cut & Sew >>

Brand: Marc Ecko Cut & Sew

Key styles: Trompe l’oeil patterns abound on sport shirts, blazers and pants including a “tie” pattern down the front of a sport shirt and cavalry twill pants that look like wovens.

Design/inspiration: The Iconix-owned contemporary brand is now being designed by its founder, Marc Ecko. He has repositioned the label for fall with an “angry, preppy approach” centered around the relationship between teacher and student.

Prices: Wovens retail for $80 to $110, jackets for $179 to $200 and bottoms for around $90.

NEXT: Levi’s >>

Brand: Levi’s

Key styles: The comprehensive offering of briefs, boxer briefs, trunks, T-shirts and tank tops is offered in a range of price points, from moderate (the 200 series, available at Macy’s) to premium cotton (the 300 series, available at Nordstrom). There’s also a merino wool grouping, the 400 series, as well as a Commuter Series, which combines performance attributes with fashion features. Woven boxers and a range of socks are also offered.

Design inspiration/aesthetic: The collection, produced by Mad Projects, pays homage to the heritage of the jeanswear brand by offering detailing such as brass rivets, red chain outline stitching and the brand’s signature red bat-wing logo.

Prices: A two-pack from the 200 series ranges from $24.50 to $26.50; a two-pack from the 300 series costs $2 more, and the 400 series, which is sold in singles, retails for $45 to $50 for the underwear and $65 to $75 for the crewnecks. The Commuter Series retails from $29.50 to $32.50, and the woven boxers are $20 each.

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