Phoebe Philo’s professional raison d’être has always been aboutfinding practical solutions to real-life wardrobe concerns. Typically,she has tackled the question of what women need and want, and come upwith a clear, finely honed seasonal message. For fall, she seemed totake on another sartorial concern: what her stores need and want.Judging from this collection, they want diversity, as this was aswide-ranging a Céline lineup as Philo has ever shown.

She started with a lady moment worked with a proverbial Phoebetwist: fit-and-flare coats with off-beat button treatments; for example,a double-breasted closure with three buttons on one side and six on theother, the latter forming an obtuse angle rather than a row. That rusecontinued with portrait collar tops tucked into wide-legged trousers.This established a subtle retro vibe that wafted in and out.

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