Donnaspeak can be a complicated language. “Absolutely Donna Karan.Can’t be anybody else,” the designer explained of her fall collectionduring a weekend preview. She noted a return to the body and a directlink to the “seven easy pieces” on which she established her business.She also spoke of her personal, long-in-coming discovery that her workhas always been the fashion counterpart of the art of her late husband,Stephan Weiss. “If you look at Stephan’s sculpture, it’s all about thebody.…It’s my DNA. It’s who I am,” she said. In her show notes, Karancontinued the motif, calling herself “a New York woman, embracing theworld” with clothes for all day, all night and “every culture.”

Possible in the grand scheme, perhaps. But a lot to put on onecollection of 39 looks. The result was a journey that lost its way.Karan titled the collection “Sensual. Soulful. Sculptural.” Check andcheck, on the bookend adjectives. At its best, the clothes radiatedKaran’s sexy, body-centric allure that has become increasingly artfulover the years. Time and again she draped, twisted and slashed herbeloved jerseys to perfection in fabulous dresses. Similarly, there werebeautifully sculpted coats, sometimes worn under capelets for extradash.

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