Dorothee Schumacher opened Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and the new main venue Kaufhof Jahnsdorf Tuesday morning with a fall collection that deliberately pushed some comfort-zone boundaries while retaining a comfort-loving feel. Cozy blanket wrap coats had a falling-off-the-shoulders ease; a cuddly-teddy-bear pile came in big shapes and wildly acidic tones; there were down-filled duvet coats, with or without sleeves, plus puffer scarves and hoods. Nonutility peplum aprons nonetheless suggested protection, and sleepy negligee camisoles and slipdresses in satin and lace were part of an extremely diverse and item-driven lineup meant to be played with and mismatched at will.
Tagging it all “A Modern Tribe,” Schumacher said “it’s time to show a bit more feeling. Everything doesn’t have to be so perfect.” This spurred patterns and prints with a hand-drawn look, oddly contrasting colors and textures, volumes and lengths that played with expectations, especially in the mix, and waist-conscious accessories and accents fluttering with feathers and fringes. It was an appealing “symbiosis of opposites…” directed at a “modern woman searching for her own tribe.”