Fashion leaves little time for revelry. So fresh off his triumphanttriptych at the Oscars, for which Giorgio Armani now famously dressedthree best-actress nominees — Jessica Chastain, Naomi Watts andQuvenzhané Wallis — it was back to business as usual, which on Mondaymeant the showing of his fall collection.
Armani’s attentionsclearly were not diverted by his Oscars responsibilities; this was aquite complicated, labor-intensive collection. Too much so at times,especially since its title, “Garçonne,” presaged a more relaxed,off-handed vibe. Instead, Armani seemed too focused on the self-imposedgrails of “avant-garde” and “calculated eccentricity” (descriptivescited in his program notes), which led to some heavy-handedness ofdesign and styling.
Getting past those, there were some terrificclothes. Armani opened with elegant, waist-conscious jackets ininteresting graphic patterns over languid velvet pants. He then moved ina sportier direction with short, loose jackets, these over low-slungtrousers. Both looked great. They were just the beginning, as along theway Armani sent out every shape of jacket imaginable and intenselytextured sweaters as well as jumpsuits, their tops cut like extra-widelapels; pants that unzipped down the sides for extra volume, and a fewlovely short dresses. He also did his part for Milan’s great coat seasonwith a double-faced black-and-blue topper and fluffier versions.
Forevening, he was both at his best and most confounding. His series ofblack looks started elegantly but got increasingly tricked out withexcesses such as a double-winged bodice on a dress and a stiff,suspended peplum over sparkly pants. Yet every now and then he exhaledand went for the ease of a lovely embroidered top and velvet skirt,including one with a black-and-white T-shirt aquiver with rows of beadedfringe. Such looks radiated an understated chic that sits at the coreof the Armani allure.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews