Ralph Lauren has been hit with a case of sartorial wanderlust oflate. With the collection he showed on Thursday morning, he left theheat and passion of Spain, where he went for spring, for a sojourn toRussia (which he visited for the first time when he opened his Moscowflagship in 2007). There he found dramatic romance worthy of a Tolstoyheroine. But why stay in one place? Lauren worked in a healthy Parisiansoupcon that was a cross between hello-chic-sailor and Jean Valjean.

Lauren’s day looks drew heavily from naval motifs, particularlyan array of jaunty outerwear, from snappy peacoats to braid-trimmedofficer’s fare. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away.Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomyivory topper. He also showed terrific knits and poetic shirts withbillowing sleeves, such as the one worn with black pants that opened theshow.

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