Shortly before the first model stepped out at Rick Owens, sudsstarted trickling down the tilted glass backdrop. They slowly formed acloudlike mass on the concrete floor, signaling an important clue:Owens, who has a proclivity for darkness, was channeling a lighterspirit. The result was nothing short of terrific.

The lineup had nuances of the secessionist art movement, from tothe models’ graphically chopped hair to the silhouettes, some of whichfeatured voluminous tops coming together below the waist over slim,floor-length skirts or dresses.

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