What is Hedi Slimane’s mandate at Saint Laurent? Without a clearunderstanding of purpose, it’s difficult to review his fall collectionin a lucid way.
Typically, when a designer takes over a storiedhouse, said mandate is, at least in part, to air out and freshen up,ditching the dated while transforming the best of the founder’siconography into modern wonders that entice the global customer to buythe clothes, but if not the clothes, then the real moneymakers — bags,shoes, fragrance. Yet does it have to be that way? If a woman loves adress, does she really care if she can draw a straight line back to herown mental archive of the founder’s work? Probably not.
Thecollection Slimane showed on Monday night didn’t shout, whisper or evenmouth the words Saint Laurent. But (blasphemous though it may ring tothose who worship at the YSL altar), to do so might not be thedesigner’s mandate. Word around Paris is that the company brass wantsthe collection to skew younger in look in the hopes of engaging ayounger customer. Consider that done. Surely one cannot miss theubiquity of Seventies-ish floppy hats around this city, both at theshows and elsewhere — a trend traceable to Slimane’s spring runway.
Noneof which explains his fall collection. Continuing from his terrificmen’s collection, he worked a grunge theme, “California Grunge” to bespecific. It was all about little dresses — baby dolls, high-collaredschoolgirls, scoop-necked Lolitas — under the cover of big, sloppycardigans and woolly mufflers with interludes of leather-based sexpotsthat swung toward biker babe. What there was, in droves: a sense of thedesigner’s bravado. The man has guts. In absentia: the hallowed originalthought, though one is reminded of Coco Chanel’s admonition, “Onlythose with no memory insist on their originality.” Still, he missed thechance to take a motif well-entrenched in fashion’s public domain andmake it his own.
Then there’s the issue of using expensiveclothes to achieve a deliberately down-market attitude. But Slimaneisn’t the first designer to elevate a bargain-bin look to luxury prices —that, too, is a fashion standard, though he could have pushed the ironyof that ruse more obviously. And yes, there were clothes that theretailers who loved Slimane’s debut collection for spring will loveagain, notably the leather jackets, a few coats and many of the dresses,virtually all charming and some, obviously expensive, such as the lastlook out, an allover embroidered A-line dress with pristine whitecollar.
Few archetypes are more engaging than the undone girl,especially when under her ratty hair, pout, pounding gait and sloppychic lurk a pretty face and skinny body. But is playing a cutesy,disaffected-youth hand enough to propel the house of Saint Laurent intotoday’s luxury stratosphere — especially if the targeted air space isthat in which Chanel and Dior reside? That, too, remains a question.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)