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Men'sWeek issue 02/12/2015

New and noteworthy brands filled the floors at the Las Vegas men’s shows this week. Here are a few highlights from Project, Liberty Fairs, Capsule, Agenda and MRket.

This story first appeared in the February 12, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.


PROJECT

Brand: 2(x)ist
Aesthetic: The underwear expert has branched out beyond its core competency and is now offering swimwear and an ath-leisure collection as it moves toward becoming a full lifestyle brand. President and chief executive officer Tom Speight said both product categories are targeted to the man seeking more fashion-forward merchandise that continues to be functional.
Key styles: The swimwear offers graphic stripes in wovens and knits in a variety of cuts, ranging from a volley short to a retro jogger. The ath-leisure collection includes a harem pant, cropped cargo and fashionable tops.
Prices: Bottoms in the ath-leisure collection are $58 to $88 while swimwear averages $55 but can go up to $155.

Brand: William by Will Leather Goods
Designer: William Adler
Aesthetic: The Eugene, Ore.-based leather goods brand is branching out into the hat business for fall. The line for men and women is being manufactured in the company’s new workshop in Eugene from a combination of beaver and European hair pelts with leather detailing. Adler partnered with California-based hatmaker Gregory Westbrook on the collection, all of which is custom made-to-order.
Prices: From $395 to $895.

Brand: Kent & Curwen
Designer: Simon Spurr
Aesthetic: Since Spurr signed on as creative director to revamp the British heritage brand, its look has changed dramatically. Instead of tweeds and plaids, Spurr is offering up a more contemporary and minimal collection centered around technical fabrics and a more-active aesthetic. But he retained the history of the label, which was founded in 1926 as a cricket brand, by using Kent & Curwen’s signature hexagon logo in everything from sweater patterns to a quilted leather bomber.
Prices: Wovens are $175 to $225, a quilted puffer is $795, blazers are $995 and up and topcoats are $1,695 to $2,995.

Brand: Canada Goose
Design inspiration/aesthetic: Canada Goose drew from its heritage for fall, but refreshed its classic pieces to target the “urban outdoorsman.” The brand introduced its first print, a graphic camouflage, and slate, a new color that’s a brighter take on military green.
Key styles: This outerwear brand showcased two new styles: the Carson coat, an update on its best-selling Chateau parka, and the McMillan coat, a street-influenced piece with a cleaner silhouette and furless hood.
Prices: Outerwear retails from $650 to $800 and lighter-weight jackets are $350 to $550.

Brand: Paul & Joe
Designer: Sophie Mechaly
Aesthetic: Mechaly looked to Mongolia, Marrakech and South America to create a look the brand is calling “urban, ethnic chic.” Incorporating luxe fabrics such as wool, cashmere and lambskin into Paul & Joe staples was another important theme.
Key styles: Knit ponchos, reversible lambskin coats, wool sweaters, and the brand’s popular button-up shirts with clever prints.
Prices: Shirts are $180, suits are $600, lambskin coats are $1,900, and knit ponchos are $364.

Brand: Jose Real
Designer: Jose Real
Aesthetic: Designed in Spain and manufactured in Italy, Jose Real’s footwear specializes in offering unique colors made from crust leathers, a skin that has been tanned but not finished. For fall, the three-year-old brand introduced a sporty line of dress sneakers along with a lower-priced contemporary collection.
Key styles: The best-selling pointed-toe oxford from the Nordve collection, two-tone oxfords from the Amsterdam collection and a monk-strap brogue from the Berlina line.
Prices: $298 to $395.

Brand: AG Adriano Goldschmied
Designer inspiration/aesthetic: AG continues to expand its assortment to present a lifestyle offering. The brand offers easy-to-wear pieces in comfortable fabrics such as the Vanguard jogger trousers with cargo pockets, French terry pullovers and lambskin leather moto jackets. For fall, AG’s denim story is clean with a skinny silhouette.
Key styles: AG previewed the Bowery, a new denim style with a skinnier leg; 360 denim, jeans with four-way performance stretch, and the Dylan style in a new stretch leather.
Prices: Denim retails from $200 to $250, leather pieces are $700 to $800, joggers are $198, and wool knits are $298.

LIBERTY
Brand: Max ’n Chester
Designer: Peter Trainor
Aesthetic: Trainor’s family has a long history in the apparel industry: His grandfather was a tailor and his mother was a designer in England. The three-year-old Max ’n Chester label is centered around comfort and luxe fabrications, but with a central focus on tailoring.
Key styles: A wool sport coat has 5 percent Tencel to add softness; matching pants have a fully tailored waist with a peak on the back of the waistband and a tapered fit. There are also basic T-shirts updated with an asymmetrical seam, a baseball jacket and sweatshirts. Prices: T-shirts start at $80, sweatshirts are $125 to $150 and the wool suit jacket is $500.

Brand: Bluey
Designer: Hiroki Yahagi
Aesthetic: The Tokyo-based Yahagi is a surfer who’s always searching for the perfect wave. He’s brought that same intense purpose to his apparel brand, which centers mainly around shirts but also includes some pants and a few key outerwear pieces.
Key styles: A serious parka is made from Cordura Ballistic material so it won’t rip or tear. There are also short-sleeve shirts that look like traditional Japanese kimonos, but they’re filled with down; a lightweight, long-sleeve quilted shirt in a hooded loop-wheeled fabric, and matching sweatpants.
Prices: T-shirts are $50, outerwear is $500 and the Ballistic parka is $700.

Brand: Krammer & Stoudt
Designer: Mike Rubin
Aesthetic: Rubin was born and raised in Huntington Beach, Calif., and although he and his wife Courtenay Nearburg, managing director, have relocated to New York to be closer to the heart of the men’s contemporary market, the brand’s aesthetic remains the same: “West Coast cool meets New York precision.”
Key styles: Rubin’s surf, skate and punk rock influences are being applied to a collection that is targeted to an older guy who still wants to dress cool, but age-appropriate. Key pieces include a boiled Japanese wool needle punch coat with a shearling collar and toggle closure and a “luxe sweat suit” of brushed double-face cotton joggers with a matching jacket. 
Prices: The luxe sweat suit jacket is $425 and the pants are $300; overcoats are $820 to $850, and a leather bomber is $1,350.

Brand: Shockoe Atelier
Designer: Anthony Lupesco
Aesthetic: Designer Anthony Lupesco, who aims to pair tailored pieces with denim, is inspired by American heritage and Italian luxury.
Key styles: Founded by father-son team Pierre and Anthony Lupesco, Shockoe Atelier, which started three years ago, produces all of its denim in Richmond, Va. The brand is moving into tailored pieces for fall, which include soft-shoulder jackets, alpaca car coats and shirts.
Prices: Shirts are $250; jackets are $1,200 to $1,500, and denim is $275 to $450.

Brand: Knickerbocker Mfg. Co.
Designer: Andrew Livingston
Aesthetic: Livingston manufactured private-label pieces out of his Brooklyn factory before creating his own line. His collection of tried-and-true men’s wear basics has a modern sensibility with vintage influences.
Key styles: Short-sleeve Henley shirts, wool straight-leg trousers, melton wool sport coats and waxed canvas jackets with blanket-striped linings.
Prices: Shirts retail from $195 to $250; basic knits are $45 to $75; vests are $250 to $350, and jackets are $300 to $495.

CAPSULE
Brand: Sea Green
Designer: Masanaka Sakao
Aesthetic: The three-year-old brand has an image that centers around the culture on the coast in Los Angeles with its cozy collection of knitwear and outerwear that’s produced in Japan from Japanese fabrics.
Key styles: Hoodies in waffle knits and cotton jersey and sweaters with Native American prints. The brand also branched out into coats this season, offering up a herringbone jacquard as one option.
Prices: Knitwear sells for $300 to $400, hoodies are $120 to $200 and outerwear is $500 to $700.

Brand: Alder New York
Aesthetic: The three-year-old Brooklyn-based label founded by David Krause and Nina Zilka offers a casual luxury collection targeted to the Millennial seeking traditional men’s wear pieces with an updated point of view. The brand was just nominated for an FGI Rising Star award for men’s wear.
Key styles: A traditional blue-and-white striped dress shirt has been tweaked with wool sleeves; wool nylon windowpane pants “feel like loungewear but are completely sartorial,” Zilka said. There are also elongated sweaters and shirts for layering and a long wool overcoat with a men’s shirting fabric used for the lining.
Prices: Shirts retail at $198, trousers for around $370 and the coat is $845.

Brand: Naadam
Designer: Hadas Saar
Aesthetic: This New York-based knitwear brand, which launched in 2013, ethically sources fabrics and materials from Mongolia, Kenya and India by investing in these countries’ manufacturing facilities. Cofounder Matthew Scanlan said the brand is targeted to the “urban nomad.” For fall, Naadam introduced shirts made from denim sourced in Varanasi, India.
Key styles: Knit camouflage ponchos, cashmere jackets with rubberized buttons, sweater coats with toggles and denim button-ups.
Prices: $395 to $1,600.

Brand: NSF
Designer: Jamie Haller
Aesthetic: For the second time, NSF has collaborated with Bliss and Mischief, a Los Angeles-based brand known for updating vintage pieces with chain-stitch embroidery. The collection, which is being sold exclusively at Barneys New York for spring, is inspired by the California desert and offers classic Western details.
Key styles: The capsule collection features NSF’s chambray shirts, denim jackets and military parkas decorated with Bliss and Mischief’s Southwestern-influenced embroidery.
Prices: Shirts are $595; denim ranges from $695 to $795, and parkas are $995.

MRKET
Brand
: I.C. Richard Choi
Designer: Richard Choi
Aesthetic: The brand’s sport coats are centered around knits. “They have the structure of a sweater,” Choi said. “There’s too much of the same out there, so we do a lot of knits.”
Key styles: Sport coats in printed jerseys, indigo-dyed denim and flannel, as well as jacquard knit coats and hand-burnished leather jackets.
Prices: Sport coats open at $395 and go up to $1,500 for a leather bomber.

Brand: PVH Corp.
Designer: Licensed dress shirts and neckwear from a bevy of brands and designers including Calvin Klein, Van Heusen and others allow the corporation to offer a variety of fits, styles and price points.
Key styles: The color indigo is a key push for all brands for fall in dress shirts, which are also being infused with performance attributes such as stretch. David Sirkin, president of dress shirts, said the message will be called out on every brand, which will include a small, removable tag on the front with the word “indigo” on it. Neckwear is being designed to complement the blue-hued shirts, with many in solid colors.
Prices: Chaps starts at $45 while Calvin Klein dress shirts retail for $89.50.

AGENDA
Brand: Strand
Designer: Scot Shandalove
Aesthetic: Shandalove, founder of men’s wear brand Matiere, wanted to launch a lower-priced line and did so under the Strand label. The debut collection includes more-accessible reinterpretations of pieces that did well for Matiere. Instead of investing in expensive fabric development, which is a Matiere signature, Shandalove elevated Strand pieces with interesting washes and details.
Key styles: Loose knit sweaters with tie-dye details, cotton twill joggers, mixed fabric T-shirts and quilted denim jackets.
Prices: Sweaters are $100; joggers range from $90 to $120, and jackets are $160.

Brand: Swear London
Designer: Taka Iizuka
Aesthetic: The London-based footwear brand has built a reputation for creating chunky platform shoes, but has streamlined its aesthetic over the past few years and is now targeting the U.S. market. Current U.S. customers include Intermix, Barneys and American Rag.
Key styles: Leather oxfords with contrasting insoles and outsoles, high-top sneakers with Neoprene details, micro-suede high tops with zipper closures and oxfords with camouflage printed soles.
Prices: $150 to $285.

 

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