Two fresh brands in Milan.
This story first appeared in the July 23, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Traveling is definitely in Ayah Tabari’s DNA. Born in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, to a Palestinian family, the 27-year-old Tabari was raised in Jordan. She graduated from a business school in London before settling in Dubai, where she launched her label Mochi in 2013.
So it’s no surprise that the entrepreneurial designer based her business on a nomadic principle: each season, Tabari identifies an area in the world where she sources hand-embroidered fabrics to use in her women’s clothing and accessories line, and has the product manufactured by local artisans in those regions.
The result is a fashion line blending Eastern influences — the word “Mochi” is a term used in southern Asia to indicate chain-stitched embroideries — with Western elements.
At the Super trade show, Mochi will present its Jaipur and Thailand ranges, comprising colorful sets of crop tops and skirts, dresses, jackets and shorts embellished with the traditional decoration of those regions for an ethnic, hippie-chic look. The collections also include shoulder bags, clutches, headbands, turbans and slippers.
Mochi collections, which retail from 30 euros, or about $40 at current exchange, to 300 euros, or $406, are presented to buyers through monthly trunk shows. They’re also sold online at Allthingsmochi.com and are available for purchase at S*uce boutiques in the United Arab Emirates.
FILLES A PAPA
Sisters Carol and Sarah Piron launched their Filles a Papa women’s label in 2009 in Liège, Belgium, and were joined by fashion photographer Gregory Derkenne.
Positioned in the contemporary segment of the market, the aesthetic of Filles a Papa (“Daddy’s Girls”) blends streetwear references with design elements. Easy-to-wear pieces, like sweaters, crop tops, denim pants and pencil skirts, are often decorated with cheeky slogans like “Too cool for school,” “Tomboy” or names of cocktails (“Bloody Mary,” “Daiquiri”), patches and sequined embroideries.
For its debut at the White trade show, Filles a Papa will present a collection inspired by North American stock-car racing. Jeans and leather jackets are decorated with maxi grommets, checkered shirts and pants show sequined flames, while distressed sweaters have a vintage look. The palette includes earthy tones of nude and dust, with hints of American flag red, white, red and blue. Key pieces include a satin jumpsuit inspired by race-car drivers, a varsity jacket with leather fringes and coordinating tight denim jeans and a fitted Western shirt.
T-shirts and tops retail from 85 to 680 euros ($115 to $919), sweatshirts go from 185 to 300 euros ($250 to $406), bottoms run 250 to 480 euros ($338 to $649), while outerwear ranges from 400 to 2,000 euros ($541 to $2,705).
Filles a Papa collections are sold at stores including H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles, International Playground in New York, Colette in Paris, Harvey Nichols in London, Net-a-porter.com and Thecorner.com.