When MAGIC takes over Mandalay Bay Convention Center on Feb. 16, Tandy Brands will unveil a booth designed around the company’s recently revamped logo and branding campaign.
But as far as the leather goods and belt markets go, that’s likely all that will be new at MAGIC. Vendors this season are otherwise looking to the past, where vintage and heritage styles will dominate in the fall.
“Two years ago, this market was much more driven by trend,” said Laura Drnek, vice president of merchandising at Randa Accessories. “Now it’s all about brand authenticity.”
For many, that means focusing on vintage-inspired product. Levi’s, which produces under license, is showing belts in burnished leather with lots of highs and lows and smoked, antiqued hardware. “These belts look like your grandfather wore them 20 years ago,” Drnek explained. “Black is still important but brown is really trending here.”
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Dickies is also looking to its roots, with a belt and wallet line that evokes the company’s workwear heritage. “It’s cleaner with polished finishes like antique nickel that reflects the literal nuts and bolts that a lot of Dickies consumers use in their jobs,” said Wava Junior, senior merchandiser at Randa Accessories, where she oversees the license.
Heritage is also a watchword at Wrangler, as well as Dockers, which is showing a range of less dressy belts that feature milled and burnished leathers with unfinished edges and larger widths.
Tandy is also relaunching one of its proprietary small leather goods brands, Rolfs, which will revolve around a concept of heritage and craftsmanship. “We upgraded the leather, linings and created new packaging for the line,” said Hilda McDuff, chief merchandising officer for Brands.
These vintage designs shadow a growing trend in sportswear toward classic American looks, but also reflect retailer demand for styles that are tested and familiar. The exception appears to be the young men’s market, where belts and small leather goods continue to be driven by fashion. Brand’s Surplus line is showing innovative screen prints on its belts. Marc Ecko Cut & Sew, a license, is moving toward jean-friendly but playful styles with exaggerated hardware, like studding and mixed metals, used on worn leathers with raw edges.
The price-value equation, that buzz phrase of 2009, will continue to drive business in the fall as well. “The value component has obviously never been more critical,” said Rick Luft, president of Swank Inc. His company is highlighting value by increasing descriptive language on packaging for the company’s small leather goods and belts, which it makes under license for the likes of Kenneth Cole, Tumi and Guess, among others. For instance, it’s promoting slim wallets with tags that call out the product’s comfort.
Durability and comfort are also mandates at Tandy, according to McDuff. “You have to offer more for the price right now,” she said, adding that the company is also scouring its suppliers for better deals. “We’ve committed ourselves to leveraging our sourcing. The competitive landscape demands it.”
In such a market, it’s no surprise that reversible belts — always a hit in the men’s market — have been trending across the market.