Timing is everything.
With global sourcing strategies in flux and economic uncertainty prevailing, the major textile and sourcing trade exhibitions — twin shows Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA, and Première Vision New York — are set for their largest summer editions ever.
The shows come as trade deals such as the Trans-Pacific Partnership are pending ratification by 12 countries from Vietnam to the U.S., and the Transatlantic Trade & Investment Partnership between the U.S. and European Union is being negotiated amid the Brexit crisis, while free-trade agreements are under fire in the U.S. presidential campaign.
At the same time, the Made in the USA revival looks to keep up momentum and countries vie to take market share from China as the manufacturing powerhouse struggles with its economy.
A new study from technology systems specialist Lectra, called “Applying Lean in Apparel Manufacturing,” said manufacturers are under pressure to produce at lower prices to remain competitive in the global market.
Lectra’s white paper focuses on ways to lower costs through automation, efficient production methods and reducing waste, all factors likely to be on the minds of sourcing specialists at the shows. The study projects that by 2018, it will cost more to produce in China than it will in the U.S. due to rising costs in areas such as labor and energy.
The 10th anniversary edition of Texworld USA, set to open a three-day run on Tuesday at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, will introduce “industry boot camps” organized by Lenzing Innovation, with topics such as “Striving for Sustainability” and “Social Media, Marketing & Trends,” on top of the issue-oriented Lenzing Seminar Series.
Texworld USA will host more than 550 international exhibitors showing fabrics and planning production for fall 2017 from 17 countries.
Country pavilions have been arranged from South Korea, Taiwan and Turkey. The centerpiece Lenzing Innovation pavilion will feature 26 mills from the U.S., China, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan.
There will also be an increased focus on sustainability, with 35 exhibitors offering sustainable options, the on-site Repreve #TurnItGreen truck and six seminars on the topic.
The concurrent Apparel Sourcing USA exhibit will have some 210 international exhibitors from nine countries, with special pavilions for Mexico, Colombia and Pakistan.
“We have our USA section back, with yarn, fabric and garment manufacturers,” said Tricia Carey, director of global business development for denim at Lenzing Fibers. “Our 10-year founders are Mozartex and Handseltex, which have participated in every show of Texworld USA. From Japan, we welcome Kuwamura, which specializes in woven fabrics.”
U.S. firms presenting in Lenzing’s pavilion are Buhler Quality Yarns, Design Knit, Laguna Fabrics, SAS Textiles and Texollini.
Lenzing’s own special focus this season is “Pure Natural Luxury,” focusing on blends with wool. Carey said Lenzing’s Tencel branded fiber and wool are “excellent blend partners….We see this not only in ready-to-wear, but also in activewear looks.”
“After a snowy January show, we are anticipating a lively Texworld USA,” Carey said. “We will be celebrating with Messe Frankfurt and the textile community the 10-year anniversary of the show. Lenzing is pleased to be a cornerstone of the show from the very beginning with the Lenzing Innovation Pavilion and Seminar Series. When I look back on the decade and the changes of the textile and apparel markets, we see the shift into Asia, especially China, the USA renaissance, an activewear explosion and the commonplace Internet for communication and information exchange.”
As for overall business conditions, Carey said, “It’s a difficult time in the market to drive innovation and performance in textiles with price point as the priority. Bringing the marketplace together twice a year to exchange ideas for market evolution is a constant to the show and central to Lenzing’s participation.”
Highlights of the main seminar series include a trio of key topics on Wednesday afternoon, starting with “Made in NYC,” with a discussion of what is being accomplished by organizations and companies that are part of the Made in NYC revival.
This is followed by “New Technology in Fibers,” with executives from Lenzing, Buhler and Invista, and “Separating Fact from Fiction: The Current Reality of Recycled Polyesters.”
Also on Wednesday and Thursday is Korean Preview, featuring 70 South Korean textile and apparel manufacturers at the Metropolitan Pavilion.
Guglielmo Olearo, director of international shows at Première Vision, said PV New York will have 353 exhibitors, the most ever for the July edition, as it settles into Pier 94 on the Hudson River for the second season July 19 and 20.
“The American economy is still strong, although textile and garment consumption remains soft,” he said. “There are a lot of expectations for the American market compared to Europe, which is still very weak. But we live in a period in which the fashion industry is still questioning itself in terms of the calendar, the way of doing business and channels of distribution. But it still all starts with the fabrics and raw materials.”
There will be fabric, leather goods, accessories and manufacturing exhibitors from countries including France, Italy, Portugal, Turkey, Morocco, Turkey and Brazil.
“Fabrics remain our core business, with 175 exhibitors,” Olearo added. “We have a very rich offer this year in silk, in all levels of the market.”
PV will also serve up several seminars, including “Trend Tasting” with deputy fashion director Sabine Le Chatelier, and “Current state of Manufacturing in the U.S.: What Fundamental Shifts Need to Happen for U.S. Brands to Compete,” with Megan Donadio, a senior manager at Kurt Salmon.
In addition, PV is extending its arrangement begun at the previous edition with the Council of Fashion Designers of America that offers designers more targeted services and provides them with a range of support at the show.
A PV spokeswoman noted that the collaboration includes assistance to young brands and designers, particularly with small-scale orders, fashion presentations for CFDA members, and working together to select the Première Vision Brand Ambassadors.
SpinExpo New York is headed back to the Brooklyn Convention Center for the second time July 19 to 21. The show features mostly Asian yarn and fiber firms, along with knitwear manufacturers.
Leather goods show Lineapelle New York sets up shop at the Metropolitan Pavilion on July 19 and 20. It features mostly European tanners and manufacturers of leather, primarily for shoes and handbags.
Missing this season will be Milano Unica New York, which has dropped out of the show lineup in New York after two seasons and will rely on the showrooms of its Italian fabrics firms to address the market.