Looks with a military edge have been striding across the Paris runways, although they’re more of the Boy Scout rather than the Général de Gaulle variety.

Reflective stripes, rugged patches, zippers and pockets galore were key features of this outdoors-y collection.

The designer delved deep into collaborations, with outfits produced with brands including Carhartt, Karrimor, The North Face and Levi’s.

“Retro gangsters” was the look, heightened by the porkpie hats and the tattooed model’s swagger.

Bonded fabrics added a modern crispness to the tubular tailoring Junya Watanabe pursued for fall.

Javanese batiks, now revered throughout Western Africa, gave an exotic island flavor to the Japanese designer's fetish patch works, here applied to cotton safari shirts and handsome Bermudas.

The fall collection was a hoot, disco balls spinning as a troupe of cool cats trod a red-carpet runway.

The Japanese designer collaborated with rope and rucksack specialist Seil Marschall.

The show was a rumpled ode to haute hobo style, complete with prisoner-stripe long johns, bowler hats and models with twitching pencil moustaches.

The Japanese designer trumpeted a preppy, polished guise for spring via a plethora of summery suits.

In a charming presentation, models ambled around park benches wearing countrified takes on an urban wardrobe.

Junya Watanabe went overboard for a seafaring style – and all of it looked spiffy and terrific.

Watanabe remixed classics to form new compositions in tailored clothing. Only the drop-crotch and pants missed a beat in an otherwise groovy lineup for fall.

For fall, the designer pushed into a new frontier with his ode to hunting and fishing, disassembling each garment and morphing it into something new.