More was more for the overall beauty look at Libertine, which paired a smudged, smoky eye with a printed, embellished nail to exude designer Johnson Hartig’s gypsy inspiration.
Katie Jane Hughes for Too Cool For School paired a structured dark eye with glowing skin. To get the look she mixed black eyeliner from Dinoplatz with the brand’s Egg Mellow cream to give the liner some “slip.” Then she buffed the mixture into the lash line, extending it beyond the natural end of the eye in a masculine cat eye. She buffed it in, extending it along the lower lash line. “The other reason is because it’s going to break down in a beautiful way, it’s going to break down in the lines of the face,” Hughes said. She went over the top of the liner with black eyeshadow for intensity. At the end, Hughes spread red lip balm on the lash line, which gradually spread itself upwards along the lid. “It’s going to look very grungy and dirty and organic on everyone,” she said. “Red eyes are such a cool thing that people need to try more…the overall feeling will be a hue of red but it will still be black.” Dinoplatz Pearl Bay Invasion Highlighter was pressed into the heels of her palms and pushed into the cheekbones and the top of her lids.
Kenna Kennor for Evo kept the hair relatively simple, spritzing it with Salty Dog Salt Spray before cutting open hair nets and slipping them over models’ heads. In the front of the head a round brush was used to pull the hair across the front of the face. The idea was for the hair to be tucked into the collection’s jackets — hair nets weren’t visible in the final look. “They’ve always got this punk attitude, this nod to the anti-establishment, anarchist, which is punk, right? Johnson the designer also loved Romanian gypsies this year…they also have the same kind of anti-establishment, traveler, mentality,” said Kennor. Girls with short hair were left as-is, in a nod to individuality. The final look was spritzed with Miss Malleable.
Jan Arnold for CND created a multidimensional nail look. “The story is all about the Romanian gypsy. Any kind of gypsy was the inventor of recycling, upcycling, clashing colors, mixing everything together and making it look effortless and that was sort of the vibe that Johnson was going for,” Arnold said. Models donned unique combinations of hand-painted colorful rose nails with embellished nails mixed in. Inspired by an Uzbekistan village that focused on hand embellishments, one of the nails — “the shag rug,” Arnold said — was crafted by tying knots in single threads and poking them through the nail. Another, called the “gypsy grill,” featured intricate, gold beading. Another — the “Bob Marley nail” — featured fringe that look like dreadlocks. There were also specialty beaded nail embellishments slid onto fingers like rings that provided even more movement to the look.