PARIS — Parisian men’s wear label Editions M.R has chosen Louis Wong as its first official creative director.
The French designer, who is best known for his work at A.P.C., joined the ready-to-wear company in March, and will present his first collection for the brand during Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in June.
“When Louis and I met, I immediately felt we shared this common sensibility,” said Mathieu de Ménonville, who cofounded Editions M.R in 2010 (formerly named Melinda Gloss.) “I’m hoping his creative direction will lead to developing more fabrics and styles, but will also add a touch of eccentricity and bring a fresh outlook to the brand.”
After a stint at Louis Vuitton’s men’s studio working under Marc Jacobs, Wong, 42, spent 15 years at A.P.C., collaborating with Jean Touitou on the men’s and women’s lines. In 2011, the French designer launched his own men’s line at A.P.C., named Louis W.
“I am fond of the ultraclassic French aesthetic that Mathieu embodies,” said Wong. “And I like the relaxed feel, the refined proportions. The idea is to push a radical but subtle eccentricity while staying true to the roots of Editions M.R.”
Collections were designed in-house prior to Wong’s nomination. In the brand’s early days, both De Ménonville and cofounder Rémi de Laquintane shared creative direction; De Laquintane moved on to focus solely on collections and production while De Ménonville oversaw global artistic direction. Since De Laquintane’s departure in 2017, De Ménonville has remained sole creative director, working alongside internal collaborators to create the label’s fluid tailoring and clean-cut styles.
The brand started doing women’s capsule collections in 2017 based on the main line’s most popular styles, but doesn’t plan to create a regular women’s wear line. It introduced its first eau de cologne in 2018, named “Acide,” which is sold at the Editions M.R boutique on the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire in Paris.
Editions M.R has around 100 points of sale spanning Europe, Asia and the U.S., and is working on its international development. “Maybe we’ll open new stores abroad, or maybe we’ll launch pop-up stores that will travel from one city to another,” said de Ménonville, who said sales on the brand’s e-shop were particularly strong.
“We’re not looking to triple our points of sale, but to work more closely with our existing collaborators: I’m not so much interested in having a lot of small orders from all over the world, but rather having the right people to work with in the right markets.” Japan and Korea are the label’s biggest markets, with France and the U.K. coming up third and fourth on the list of main clients.
There are no plans to open more stores in Paris. “I believe that today a store is a place to welcome people,” said the brand’s founder. “I don’t feel like we have to flood the market like Starbucks, but rather have beautiful boutiques in key markets to showcase our collections, with e-commerce allowing [us] to reach further clients.”
A lot has changed in the men’s wear scene since the brand was launched nearly 10 years ago.
“When we created the brand, there wasn’t anything going on in men’s fashion,” said de Ménonville. “It was hard to find clothes. I’m too tall for A.P.C. and can’t afford Hermès, so where was I supposed to go? Since then, the men’s wear market has become a lot more dynamic, and the customer has evolved: there is a real curiosity for fashion. The male customer of today is looking for originality.”