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Eye Spy at Couture Fall 2021

From Armani Privé to Alexis Mabille, Schiaparelli and RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp Couture, peepers were dressed up in colors.

Eyes dressed up in colorful hues had a moment during the recent winter 2021 couture season.

For Armani Privé Couture, Linda Cantello swathed models’ eyelids in an eggshell blue.

“Mr. Armani wanted something playful and optimistic, so the idea of pastels on the eyes was both a wink to classic couture but also using pastels in a chic way and moving away from omnipresent dark eye makeup,” said the international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani Beauty. “The blue was Mr. Armani’s idea, and it did have me stumped as he said he wanted ‘the blue of Italian sugar bags.’ Luckily, I have an Italian assistant, so that helped a lot.”

To conjure up ideas for the beauty look for Alexis Mabille’s couture presentation, the designer presented makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds the clothes and set for the video and photos.

“My first reaction was that I needed to create something graphic and sharp to unify the different geometries of the clothes,” said Simmonds. “Secondly, I needed to use color in a simple way to intensify each girl in the brightly colored background.

“I thought it would be good to use eyeliner to tell the story,” Simmonds continued. “So I created a classic eyeliner shape, but instead of black, I used two different, contrasting colors to create that classic winged eyeliner. Each girl had her own colors that worked with her part of the collection. I wanted to keep it simple, modern and relatable, but still impactful, to play off the extravagant shapes of the collection.”

Peepers popped at other brands’ displays this season, too, such as Off-White, Schiaparelli, RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp and Viktor & Rolf.

For more, see:

Kerby Jean-Raymond Makes History With Pyer Moss Couture Debut

The Future of Makeup, According to Anastasia Soare, Sir John Barnett and Laney Crowell

Makeup Artist Violette Teams Up With Bisous Skateboards