With his spring collection, Vladimir Karaleev managed to pile it on and still stay light. Berlin’s resident Mr. Mix It, Karaleev worked with fabrics, many in one single look, including silk organza, a nubby artisanal tweed and awning stripe, floral jacquard, honeycomb piqué, plus a sporty mesh and Neoprene. Russian constructivist elements came via single appliquéd bars or geometric pastiches, adding a new graphic element. Karaleev merged athletic with formal, showing layers of organza floating over wetsuits, and dresses and tunics cut like basketball jerseys.
Many of the men’s looks hung loose with a streetwear vibe. Karaleev featured raw edges (the designer’s norm) on some but others, like a cross-cut vest over an elongated basketball mesh top and long yellow jacquard shorts, were ready for a night out. “Just imagine Venice Beach in 2040,” the designer said. “When you first want to surf and then have to go to a cocktail afterwards.”