Jack Carlson has some very eclectic — and unusual — interests: heraldry, archaeology and vintage rowing blazers.Carlson, 29, is a coxswain on the U.S. national rowing team and has a Ph.D. in archaeology from Oxford University (a center of rowing worldwide). He’s also the author of "A Humorous Guide to Heraldry" and "Rowing Blazers," a coffee-table tome about the “authentic striped, piped, trimmed and badged” jackets worn by oarsman around the world."Rowing Blazers," which is 256 pages and features more than 250 color photos, developed a cult following after it was published in 2014 — there were book parties at Ralph Lauren flagships in New York and London — and next month, Carlson will draw on the extensive research he conducted for the book when he launches the Rowing Blazers line of men’s sport coats, shirts and ties.The collection is more than a little intimidating and insider-y, as evidenced by the preface written by Carlson to describe the line: “This collection is inspired by the traditions, myths and rituals I discovered while writing the book 'Rowing Blazers.' It’s also inspired by my collection of vintage blazers; my research in archaeology, heraldry, and classics, and my time at Oxford.”Carlson said rowing blazers are “tribal totems...ceremonial vestments, worn to emphasize both community and difference: to impress, intimidate and influence.”He believes “men’s wear is supposed to be meaningful — every detail considered, nothing random. That’s how I have approached this collection: meaningful, thoughtful, irreverent, cryptic.”In person, Carlson seems more passionate than pompous and talks about how the collection was designed using the first-hand knowledge he acquired over five years of researching the book.He spent two years preparing for the launch of the line, which is all produced in the U.S. It will include a navy wool flannel blazer — with or without white piping — with a three-roll-two silhouette, three patch pockets, removable cloisonné buttonhole fob and vintage lapel pin. The buttonhole badge is made in England by the artisans who create the Henley Royal Regatta badges.There are black-on-black, burgundy with burgundy trim, navy stripes, bright croquet stripes and other variations of the jackets in the heavy flannel, lighter-weight wool or cotton jersey.Different Latin proverbs such as “Avt via inveniam avt faciam,” or “I will find a way or make one,” are embroidered under the lapels. “They’re meaningful but irreverent,” Carlson said. “And unexpected.”The shirts are handmade from Japanese cotton oxford cloth and are intentionally distressed. They even come with a sandpaper card for further distressing and a quote from Edward Said about his Princeton classmates purposefully beating up their new shirts in hopes that it “might get them into a better club.”[caption id="attachment_10869842" align="aligncenter" width="300"] The shirts are intentionally distressed.[/caption]The neckwear is inspired by the Bear Inn in Oxford, the city’s oldest pub, established in the 13th century. “The walls and ceilings are covered with clippings of club ties,” Carlson said. Patterns include a topless woman, a dripping faucet, palm trees and biker wings, all of which have a story that Carlson is all too happy to retell.The line will launch online around May 16 and the blazers will retail from $950 to $1,200. Shirts will be $165 and ties $140.Although Rowing Blazers is the quintessential niche business that speaks to a small, upscale audience with a propensity for the preppy lifestyle, Carlson has bigger plans.“It’s not as straightforward preppy as you would think,” he said. In fact, he hinted at an upcoming collaboration with a streetwear brand that is expected to introduce Rowing Blazers to a whole new audience.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)