MILAN – Brioni’s first collection by new creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche will be presented in Paris on January 20 during the city’s Men’s Fashion Week. This will not be a runway show but a presentation.
Nitsche was appointed to the role at the storied Italian men’s wear wear company in June, succeeding Justin O’Shea, who was pushed out after only a six-month stint. The brand is now helmed by former Agent Provocateur chief executive officer Fabrizio Malverdi, who joined Brioni in April, charged with accelerating the international expansion of the elite Italian tailor following a period of turmoil. He succeeded Gianluca Flore.
Before Brioni, Nitsche had joined Vetements in September 2016 but left when the company relocated to Zurich from Paris earlier this year. She was previously a veteran at Maison Martin Margiela, which she joined in 1989, working closely with the founding designer for 23 years. After Margiela’s resignation, in 2009, Nitsche took over the creative direction of the brand.
O’Shea staged his first and only collection for Brioni in Paris during Haute Couture Week in July 2016. Under previous creative director Brendan Mullane, Brioni had shown in Milan, both through the runway and presentation formats. Mullane, who reported to then-ceo Francesco Pesci, helped expand other categories for the Italian men’s wear brand, known for its high-end tailored suits, developing its outerwear and sportswear, footwear and accessories, and targeting a younger customer.