LONDON — Craig Green has teamed with the British footwear brand Grenson on a capsule range as he prepares to stride fully into the accessories space later this year.
“The basis of the new collection is molding and creating volume and excess within garments,” Green said. The designer’s theme of molding also informed his footwear design as he aimed to create shoes from metal.
“When we started working on the shoes with Grenson, it was almost the idea of attempting to make the shoes look like toy soldier shoes,” Green said.
Green wasn’t given a brief and had creative freedom to design. He said he enjoyed adding his own twist to the brand’s classic style.
“It was as if you took them out of a mold and you are left with the central ridge on the toe-line — that kind of idea,” Green said. He said he added excess fold flaps to cover the laces, which resulted in a protective and workwear aesthetic that suited the brand’s ethos. Most of his collections are based around, uniform, workwear and functionality.
Green had dabbled in shoe design in the past. As a student, he created an eight-style range for Bally of Switzerland and he also collaborated with Purified Footwear for his spring 2014 range.
He also worked with Grenson creative director Tim Little in 2014 on a project for London Fashion Week Men’s, which led to this new partnership.
Green said he wanted to work with Grenson again because they have “a deep heritage in craftsmanship and they can make incredibly beautiful leather shoes. We are using what they do well traditionally and adapting and pushing things to fit in with the concept of the show. We have done shoes in the past, so it is not like it is the first launch of shoes ever, but it will be the first-ever shoes that will be sold in stores.”
Grenson specializes in brogues, boots, sneakers and moccasins has been hand-making shoes since 1866.
Little described Green as “so experimental and creative. The challenge of creating something, creating his vision out of a shoe in our factory, it is really about that.”
Moving into the accessories arena is a natural step, said Green, who started his label in 2012 and is known for his sculptural workwear aesthetic.
“It is a development season on season, and it is pretty exciting for small brands to develop accessory lines,” Green said. “We have developed shoes in factories before, and they ended up not being what we had intended, so we ended up using different shoes along the way. It is exciting to have a co-branded shoe that will be on sale this season.”
The shoe will retail for 440 pounds.
Last year he developed his core range and picked up stockists including Bergdorf Goodman and Mr. Porter.
“We are developing our accessory line with leather goods and bags, which will be launching in the next six months,” Green said.
“I guess it will be the same we play with classic materials and textures, that lend themselves to very classic and accessories, playing with the idea of functionality and multiuse objects, it is also the way we are approaching our accessories line. They are playful, functional and masculine at the same time.”