Duckie Brown has never been a traditional brand, so it’s no surprise that the New York-based men’s wear label has come up with a novel way to show its spring collection.
“It’s no longer business as usual,” said Daniel Silver, who runs the label with his partner Steven Cox. “The fashion world is trying to figure out what’s next.”
For Duckie, what’s next is a short film and a poster showing one complete look — a navy blazer, white polo shirt and high-waisted khakis. “Very Brooks Brothers, but not Brooks Brothers,” Silver said. The wool blazer has no fusing or shoulder pads, has a “large amount of elastic,” and the fit “resembles a skintight running top,” Cox said. “The same thing with the polo. It’s skintight but breathable. It’s almost like a bandage that holds you.” The cotton trousers with stretch have an exaggerated raised waist.
In an interview during the shoot, at the brand’s West Village studio on Wednesday, the designers said the idea of the Essential Duckie is a “continuation of last season,” where they showed only six looks.
“We see people flicking through Instagram on the subway and thought, ‘Why can’t we do just one image?’ ” Silver explained.
In addition to the featured outfit, Duckie is also offering “the best of Duckie Brown,” or pieces that it has produced over the past 15 years of the label’s life. Retailers can browse the pieces at the showroom and place orders that can then be customized.
Silver declined to say how many accounts the label has, but said it is selling to more “independents and less brick-and-mortar.”
Over the years, the brand has had associations with Perry Ellis and also produced women’s. Today, it is strictly a men’s designer line.
“Sure, we’re having a tough time,” Silver said of the self-funded brand. “But who isn’t? These are lean and mean times for everyone, and we cannot continue to do things the same way.”
Duckie has had a show for 13 of its 15 years, he said, “but this is a quieter moment.” It’s also more “realistic business-wise” to not design and produce an entire collection, they said.
Jerry Buttles shot the photo that will be used for a poster that will be sent to retailers, editors and clients. Sam Cole was the filmmaker, who will produce the 45-, 30- and 15-second films that will be e-mailed and posted on Instagram at the start of New York Fashion Week: Men’s next month. The model was Phoenix Jakob from Re:Quest. Lab Series, the men’s skin-care brand, sponsored the shoot.