Ermenegildo Zegna

Could Ermenegildo Zegna’s spring runway be the longest ever in the history of men’s wear? Artistic director Alessandro Sartori for the brand’s spring 2021 collection was inspired by the Oasi Zegna, and filmed his first “phy-gital” show at the location.

This is a haven of peace, where the headquarters of the men’s wear giant is surrounded by hydrangeas, rhododendrons, half a million pine trees planted by the namesake founder starting in the Thirties, and stunning views of the Alps. The models walked for about 3.3 kilometers (two miles) around the Oasi and at the Zegna factory, filmed by seven cameras. WWD had the opportunity to take a backstage peek and Sartori left nothing to improvisation, carefully mapping out every shot with a storyboard.

The show, to be livestreamed today, takes place at a special moment for the company, which marks its 110th anniversary this year. Sartori’s long relationship with Zegna, to which he returned in June 2016 after five years at Berluti and eight years at the creative helm of Z Zegna, allows him to fully understand the company’s history while experimenting with its high-end natural fibers, elaborating the soft and modern tailoring look that he has been perfecting.

As he showed in an exclusive preview, Sartori played with relaxed silhouettes to develop sophisticated suits with a languid feel, matched with collarless zipped tops.

The designer also created exciting hybrids by combining, for example, a fisherman’s vest and a utility shirt for a top tucked into wide-leg pleated pants.

Influenced by the lush greenery and natural landscape surrounding the Zegna factory, the designer played with a palette of earthy tones and delicate shades exuding a timeless romanticism.