Tom Kalenderian has landed at Ermenegildo Zegna.
The long-time head of men’s wear for Barneys New York, Kalenderian has joined the Milan-based luxury group as strategic adviser for retail and merchandising in the U.S. He has also been named a board member of Ermenegildo Zegna in the U.S.
Kalenderian’s appointment comes at the same time that Angelo Zegna, son of Gildo Zegna, the company’s chief executive officer and the fourth generation of the founding family, has joined the company as head of retail and merchandising in the U.S.
“Generation after generation we continue the legacy and I am very proud that Angelo, as the fourth generation of the Zegna family, is formally joining the company,” Gildo Zegna said. “The U.S. represents a key market for us and I am confident that Angelo will contribute to its further development as he brings a unique sensitivity and a fresh eye, as well as a strong point of view of the U.S. market.”
Kalenderian said he was “honored with this opportunity to become a strategic adviser and board member for the Ermenegildo Zegna brand in the U.S. I am appreciative to Gildo Zegna for considering me for this role working with this platinum brand with incredible potential. I am excited to be supporting Angelo Zegna in his new appointment as head of retail and merchandising for the market.”
Last year, Kalenderian celebrated his 40th anniversary with Barneys, which is currently liquidating its remaining stores and being reimagined as licensed shops within Saks Fifth Avenue stores. During his time at Barneys Kalenderian, who served most recently as executive vice president and general merchandise of men’s, children and home, was one of the most respected merchants in the luxury men’s business.
He not only has a passion for the industry and a deep knowledge of the business, but also the ability to unearth little-known brands that he brought to Barneys over the years. Italy, and the artisanal brands created there, were always a personal favorite of his, so it’s not surprising that he would land at one of the country’s best-known labels.
Kalenderian got his start at Barneys in 1979, taking on a 30-day sales job role. He was promoted to management a year later and soon joined Fred Pressman, the son of Barneys’ founder, on the merchandising team when the retailer was being elevated from a discount men’s emporium to a top fashion boutique. Fred Pressman introduced Zegna to the U.S. market along with Giorgio Armani, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent and Brioni.
According to Angelo Zegna’s LinkedIn page, he had served most recently as head of stores for London-based Appear Here, a role he has held since the fall of 2018. Before that, he worked for Luxottica Group for around three years. He holds an MBA from Harvard Business School and a BA from Georgetown University.
Last April, Zegna reported that in the 12 months ended Dec. 31, net profits rose 3.6 percent to 34 million euros, on revenues that declined 2 percent to 1.16 billion euros. At constant exchange rates, sales inched up 0.4 percent. China is the company’s largest market, although the U.S. continues to be important. In 2018, the company purchased an 85 percent stake in Thom Browne for an enterprise valuation of around $500 million.