COLLAR ME BEAUTIFUL: They’re off the shoulder — but not off the rack: Berlin-based men’s brand GmbH is delving into demi-couture by offering made-to-order variations of the collarbone-revealing coats and jackets that capped off its fall 2021 show.
Design duo Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik characterized the venture as a way to exalt tailoring tradition and skill, since Isik cuts all GmbH patterns himself. “The designs are only possible to make as demi-couture because of their complexity,” they noted. “In the near future we also hope to allow virtual and IRL fittings and specific customizations and a broader range of fabrics.”
The shawl constructions were inspired by mid-century haute couture and hover just past the shoulders thanks to built-in, adjustable and traditionally boned corsets that hold the garments in place. The coats and jackets can be ordered plain or with faux-fur stoles that are detachable.
The tailoring is done two hours from GmbH’s Berlin studio and then finished in-house. Huseby and Isik decided to sell these items direct to consumers rather than via wholesale in order to offer more accessible prices, roughly 30 to 40 percent above tailored rtw items. Orders can be placed online at gmbhgmbh.eu from April 23 to May 6, or the old-school way, by requesting a line sheet.
WWD said the daring, shoulder-baring looks “unlocked the sensual potential of the neckline” and the stole-like fabric panels hugging the chest “gave an armor-like quality to their tailored coats and jackets.”
Couture for men is flourishing, with Valentino introducing high-fashion looks for men in its recent spring collection, and Balenciaga poised to introduce couture for men in July when it is slated to return to the Paris calendar after a 53-year absence.