It’s no surprise that Paris Men’s Fashion Week has been gaining in importance as New York and London continue to struggle. Marquee shows such as Louis Vuitton and Dior with their buzzy creative directors are overshadowing brands showing in other cities.
And while the Milan calendar is also experiencing some strain, the big Italian brands are still managing to hold their own against their Parisian counterparts.
Looking back at the spring 2019 season, Launchmetrics’ recently released State of Menswear report found that, thanks in large part to the debut of Virgil Abloh as creative director, Louis Vuitton was by far the most popular show of the season with 18.2 million media placements. That number outpaces Dior, the next most popular show, with 9.7 million MIVs, or media impact values, Launchmetrics’ proprietary measurement of media placement in all channels: social, print and online.
Third on the list is Versace, with 5 million MIVs, followed by Prada with 3.2 million, Valentino with 3.1 million, Giorgio Armani with 2.7 million, Off-White with 2.5 million, Yohji Yamamoto with 2.194 million, Boris Bidjan Saberi with 2.190 million and Balmain with 2 million.
Noticeably absent from this list, which includes coed shows, are any designer brands showing in either London or Milan.
Michael Jais, Launchmetrics’ chief executive officer, wrote in his introduction to the report: “Today, not very long since London and New York both founded their own dedicated men’s fashion weeks to solidify the relevance of this industry, it seems the concept of these events has lost relevance in some markets. Their presence on the calendar is not a determining factor and brands such as Balenciaga are committed to organizing their own product or collection presentations outside the official schedule.”
Overall, when Florence and Milan are counted together, there was 57.8 million MIVs for the spring 2019 season, followed by Paris with 49.4 million, London with 5.8 million and New York with just 2.1 million. Florence is home to the popular Pitti Uomo trade which also hosts some well-known designer shows during its run.
In terms of who is generating the placement for the brands, influencers account for 36.5 percent of the MIVs, followed by the brands’ own media with 34 percent and regular media at 27.2 percent, the report said. Celebrities accounted for a mere 2.2 percent.
The influencers generating the most views in each city were Spanish actor and model Jon Kortajarena in New York with 105,000 views; Chinese actor and model Hu Bing with 83,000 views in London — more than David Beckham with 80,000; Swiss-Italian model and digital entrepreneur Zenia Tchoumitcheva for Milan and Florence with 753,000 views — Kris Jenner was second with 544,000, and American actor and singer Colton Haynes in Paris with 518,000 views.
Turning to coed shows, New York fared much better with the 50th anniversary extravaganza staged by Ralph Lauren in Central Park last fall the most popular show with 38 million MIVs. That was followed by Coach’s New York show with 37 million, Paris’ Gucci with 21.6 million, Calvin Klein New York show with 18.85 million, Paris’s Louis Vuitton with 18.2 million, New York’s Tom Ford with 17.8 million, Milan’s Dolce & Gabbana with 13.7 million, Paris’s Balenciaga with 12.6 million, Paris’ Dior with 9.8 million and London’s Burberry rounding out the top 10 with 8.4 million.
Launchmetrics said that of the coed shows, only Louis Vuitton and Dior, which were held during men’s fashion weeks, remained in the top 10, and that “can be attributed to the debut of two new creative directors, Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones.”
In conclusion, the report said that Paris, Florence and Milan have clearly established themselves as “leaders for men’s fashion weeks” and have proven to “be more relevant and impactful [than] their Anglo-Saxon counterparts in New York and London.”
But the most buzz continues to be generated by brands staging coed shows.
“While there’s no one-size-fits-all formula to garnering incredible media impact around a coed show, there’s certainly a notable trend toward choosing women’s weeks over men’s weeks (and according to MIV, it’s the right choice),” the report said.